North London Food & Culture

So you’ve never been to…Baan Thai, Kentish Town

If you haven't swung by for a while, it's worth revisiting this Fortess Road classic for Thai and Malaysian cuisine

Age: A solid eight years old. It took over the old Eatzone noodle bar that had been in situ for years (ask your mum).

Where exactly is it? On Fortess Road, frustratingly positioned with a bus stop outside, but with cosy wine bar Tabac next door for pre- or post-prandial snifters (incidentally, we’re still obsessed with their 125ml glasses filled right to the top for just £4.)

Baan Thai
Pad Thai: classic rendition. Photo: SE

OK. So what goes on there? Extremely reliable Thai and Malaysian food. Don’t be afraid to experiment (as we did here) but also please don’t swerve the old faves, too.

So what should I eat? The other night, before Baxter Dury headlined at The Forum, we shared deliciously seasoned fresh edamame, and perfect chicken gyoza, crispy on the outside with a soft, deeply savoury centre. But it was the classic pad Thai that stole the show: generous amounts of juicy fat prawns, a good sprinkling of crushed peanuts, and a tangle of stir fried thin rice noodles, bean sprouts, spring onion and egg, all in pleasing harmony. In short a textbook version – and less than nine quid.


Baan Thai
Tucked away on Fortess. Photo: SE

The interior? Eclectic framed prints adorn the walls, and there’s a red leather banquette running down one side, with booths on the other. Slightly awkward Covid-secure plastic sheeting separates the tables.

And what do I drink? House wine is about £17 and proved more than decent. Or there’s a small range of bottled beers.

What’s the service like? Efficient and to the point. There’s a swift turnover here, but we didn’t feel rushed, despite the small room. But if you do need another drink, there is that awesome little hideaway next door…hic.

Baan Thai 18 Fortess Rd, NW5 2HB Lunch 12midday -15:30, dinner 17:30-22:30. Find out more on their website here. 

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The award-winning print and online title Kentishtowner was founded in 2010 and is part of London Belongs To Me, a citywide network of travel guides for locals. For more info on what we write about and why, see our About section.