Where exactly is it? Tucked away in Camden’s still-feels-new Hawley Wharf development. On a warm September early evening, it was nice to see people lounging in deckchairs in the adjoining piazza facing the canal, King’s Cross-style. And there’s more to this area than you might think here, with the under-the-arches Curzon Cinema nearby, as well as a new craft brewery taproom, 3 Locks (where a two-thirds pint of signature lager costs £5).
So what goes on there? Best known for being at the helm of Michelin-starred Salt in Stratford-upon-Avon, chef Paul Foster is serving what he calls “the best quality grass-fed beef” in this inviting, low-key railway-arch setting.
What should I eat? The menu is pleasingly short, with half a dozen starters and mains. Swerving a tempting beef tartare (next time) my friend and I shared a seductive plate of ruby cured salmon with verdant dill dressing, earthy baked beetroot and creme fraiche; and al dente chargrilled tenderstem elevated with shavings of Berkswell and drizzled chimichurri.
And the mains? There were just a few options, presumably to ensure as little food waste as possible (incidentally, vegans can go for grilled cauliflower, while there’s skate with samphire for the pescatarians). As carnivores we ordered two slabs of meat; good to see cheaper cuts used too. The Irish Bavette (good value at £18) was pleasingly crusted, cooked medium-rare and – as advised by the friendly and knowledgeable chef – smothered in a Cotswold Sobrasada (a Spanish-style cured sausage), adding a decadent glistening umami thwack to what can sometimes be a chewier cut.
The highlight? The star of the evening was the grass-fed beef rump (£22), sliced rosy, with charred edges and as tender as any I’ve tasted in recent memory; almost butter-soft to the knife. Beef fat potatoes were precisely crisp yet fluffy, and a charred hispi cabbage proved a must, dressed in garlicky, creamy tofu with tarragon and shallots and the crunch of almonds (almost a meal in itself). In fact, the vegetable dishes excelled as much as the steak: something to remember for future visits.
The interior: discuss. On ground-floor level is an appealing counter facing the open kitchen, so you can watch the chefs supervising the steaks on the flaming grill, and passers-by beyond the windows. Upstairs is a more straightforward dining room – but for us, it’s all about that counter. Despite the restaurant not being full, it was small enough to feel vibrant, a secret even.
And what do I drink? Our rioja was an easy-drinking fruity number that was perfect for both the smoked fish and meat. But there are of course posh cocktails and craft beers too.
What’s the vibe like? Very neighbourhood – which is a big compliment for a development which lacks the charm of Coal Drop’s Yard. The only genuine downside is the lack of onsite toilets: you have to step outside and into the adjoining streetfood mall to climb a couple of flights up when nature calls. We hope they rethink this as toilet facilities seem essential for what could in fact be Camden’s answer to Hawksmoor.
In Summary? For many years there wasn’t a good steakhouse in Camden after the demise of Parkway institution Market. Now there are two in the same corner of NW1: the excellent Black Cow and buzzy little Grassfed. Both are passion projects equally worth checking out.
Kentishtowner ate as guests of Grassfed
