“I’ve taken the difficult and upsetting decision to close,” says owner Denise Tang. “It’s nearly ten years since I opened the restaurant but, with staff shortages and increasing rents and rates, among other factors, it has become difficult to sustain.”
The small, simple space, all exposed brick and salvaged-style chairs, opened up back in 2007. Long before the current obsession with provenance, the brief menu was always seasonal and no-frills: salt beef with mash, sea bream and anchovy, whole plaice with tartare. A classic was the rosy onglet with moreish skin-on fries and rich homemade aioli. Yum.
In our 2014 review we wrote that “Market rarely disappoints. And I can say that, having eaten within its understated walls regularly over the years, and at different times of both day and week.”
We added that “the only inexplicable thing about the place is that it’s often quieter than might be expected.”
As for what Denise is planning next – we’ll keep you posted.
