Where exactly is it? Standing proudly on Heath Street, the Horseshoe is a mere peanut’s hurl from the lovely Everyman cinema. For nearly two decades owned by Camden Brewery (which started out in its basement in the mid noughties), it was recently sold to the team behind West End tapas institutions Salt Yard, Ember Yard and Dehesa (as well as the short-lived Neighbour on Kentish Town Road, fact fans).
So what goes on there? Well, over the years it’s been through a few incarnations (including a Wetherspoon’s way back). We quite liked the minimal Scandi taproom vibe a few years back when the Brewery gave it a revamp; now it’s an unapologetic gastropub, no frills. But always, seemingly, packed.
What should I eat? Tip: order starters or mains, but don’t have both unless you’re absolutely bleedin’ ravenous. Portions are massive, recalling distant times pre-Covid, and, of course, before the Cost Of Living Crisis hit hospitality so hard. For starters, a mountainous pile of squid – that, let’s be honest, could have been more tender – came with cubed potatoes and a sprinkle of paprika, while a Scotch egg fared better in its gooey orange-yolked perfection. As for deep-fried breaded halloumi, it was calorific enough for a main.
Speaking of which? The large plates were, unusually, more impressive than the starters. A high quality Hereford beef burger was juicily rare as requested – almost wildly pink, in fact (see below pic) – with Monterey cheese, crunchy gherkins, super-oozy mayo and a bun that successfully held it all together; props too to really good home-made chips. Elsewhere, a lake-sized bowl of casarecce pasta (little Sicilian twirls, see above) was laced with different mushrooms – chestnut, chanterelle – and toasted pine nuts, zingy gremolata and earthy cavolo nero. And across the table, our friends raved about their golden-crusted braised beef and oxtail pie-for-two.
The interior: discuss. Timelessly rustic with elevated dining room at the rear. Grab the spot on the mezzanine for maximum people-watching potential.
And what do I drink? House red (£27) was a gluggable Montepulciano. And there are the usual independent craft beers and cocktails.
What’s the vibe like? Somehow The Horseshoe manages to be very Hampstead and yet not pretentious in the slightest, teetering towards rowdy on an ice-cold Thursday night.
Would you go back? Absolutely. It’s always fun to swan about NW3’s atmospheric streets, while contemplating the age-old question of who on earth can afford to live on its rarefied terraces. And if that drives you to drink, climb the hill further for one more at the Holly Bush, or drift down to bohemian candlelit institution King William IV.
Starters from £7, Mains from £16. Follow the @horseshoehampstead, 28 Heath Street NW3, website here
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