Bell & Brisket: the new kitchen at the Grafton


After six months at the helm, Texas Joe has vacated the hotspot at Kentish Town’s ever popular boozer. So what’s next?



Kount von Kraut at Duke's Head. Photo: Stephanie Wolff/Bell & Brisket
Kount von Kraut at Duke’s Head. Photo: Stephanie Wolff/Bell & Brisket
Starting life as a roaming van, founder Bel Shapiro had a dream to perfect one classic dish as best she can. That means curing brisket in brine – allowing the salt to break down the tough meat – while letting its flavours shine through.

As of late 2013, Bel set up a kitchen residency in reinvented Highgate pub the Duke’s Head, where we ate several times. And now, for one month only from today, she’s bagged herself a pop-up at Prince of Wales Road’s uber-pub (meanwhile, vacating chef Texas Joe can be found at the Horatia pub over on Holloway Road).

Founder Bel poses in front of her van. Photo: Bell & Brisket
Founder Bel poses in front of her van.
Photo: Bell & Brisket
New menu items include “fish in a box” (whole smoked mackerel with horseradish, £10), or “beef in a box” for all you carnivores out there. Also present will be a favourite of ours, the “Kount von Kraut” (£7.50), succulent hand-brined salt beef, served with melted cheddar, dill and garlic kraut on a Brick Lane bagel, with satisfyingly crunchy tangy pickles.

But our preferred indulgence? Why, the “Baron Beethoven” (main pic), which chucks in some vinegar-pickled beets and horseradish: dished up in a sturdier black rye bun, the flesh surrenders immediately, melting deliciously in the mouth. Don’t forget a side of “naked” fries (£2.50) too.

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The Bell & Brisket launches today and runs until Feb 15 at the Grafton, 20 Prince Of Wales Road NW5.

  • Show Comments

  • Felicia Schwartz

    Thank god ! Texas Joe was so horrendous I actually avoided the Grafton at meal times to avoid being faced with the odors, never mind the food itself ! Whatever happened to the amazing Fat Butcher that was in there before ?

    • Julian

      Spot on. I’d given up on the Grafton but will give it another shot.

  • Gina

    Felicia, I’m so glad to hear it wasn’t just me! So pleased to hear Texas joe has moved on!

  • nagamama

    Did those who run the Grafton not notice that we were all staying away at lunch time? Hope the Bell and Brisket is an improvement…..but why not someone who stays on for a bit and enchants us with the food? Not too difficult to manage nowadays…..

  • Matt

    £8 for a bagel is absurd

  • Charlotte

    Bell and Brisket is delicious – thank god the local boozer’s sorted again!