Starting life as a roaming van, founder Bel Shapiro had a dream to perfect one classic dish as best she can. That means curing brisket in brine – allowing the salt to break down the tough meat – while letting its flavours shine through.
As of late 2013, Bel set up a kitchen residency in reinvented Highgate pub the Duke’s Head, where we ate several times. And now, for one month only from today, she’s bagged herself a pop-up at Prince of Wales Road’s uber-pub (meanwhile, vacating chef Texas Joe can be found at the Horatia pub over on Holloway Road).
But our preferred indulgence? Why, the “Baron Beethoven” (main pic), which chucks in some vinegar-pickled beets and horseradish: dished up in a sturdier black rye bun, the flesh surrenders immediately, melting deliciously in the mouth. Don’t forget a side of “naked” fries (£2.50) too.