North London Food & Culture

Bye bye Fat Butcher. And hello Texas Joe

Talented chef Will Dee is leaving The Grafton to make way for the return of the Kentish Town cowboy himself

Will, Julia and The Grafton's Belle at last year’s Queen’s Crescent Festival.
Will, Julia and The Grafton’s Belle at last year’s Queen’s Crescent Festival. Photo: Stephen Emms

It’s all change in the kitchen at The Grafton. And yet it doesn’t seem five minutes since we first tasted those memorable – if not quite successful – bunny lollipops.

But cunicular bar snacks aside, the truth is we rate Fat Butcher chef Will Dee’s cooking as much as anyone’s – yes, that includes the Bull & Last. And so we’re genuinely sad to see him and his business partner/front-of-house Julia Finnimore jump ship. Like the best things in life, it’s all over a little too soon.

So where are they headed? Julia is, for now, being cagey. “We’re just waiting for everything to be signed and sealed with the new place,” she says, with a smile, “but it should be imminent. It’s a pub kitchen, it’s still in north London and not too far away – but it isn’t Kentish Town.”

Gah. Oh well, if you still haven’t tried their tucker, you’ve got until May 25 to dip into the well-crafted daily changing menu – things like meltingly soft charcuterie, rosy onglets, roast hake or smoked rare breed pork. And they even make their own ketchup and mayo in-house too.


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Conquering K-Town once more: Texas Joe
Conquering K-Town once more: Texas Joe

Then, from the end of the month a pretty popular local sets up stall. Debuting at the celebratory roof terrace launch on the last May bank holiday weekend will be none other than K-Town’s very own celebrity cowboy chef, Texas Joe.

Many readers will be aware of Joe’s stylish Stetson and beef concession-cum-pop-ups at Camden Town Brewery. But what changed things for the jerky king forever was his successful telly pitch to BBC2’s Dragons’ Den last year. Joe secured a decent whack of investment – and he was off.

What can readers expect from his summer residency at The Grafton? Pretty much what’s on offer at his Shoreditch restaurant (under the Brewdog bar), which we reviewed last October: delectable brisket, beef ribs, chilli-dogs and fresh cornbread.

And there’s no confirmation that slow-cooked jackalope will be on the menu – yet.

We’ll keep you posted on where The Fat Butcher set up shop next. Try Texas Joe from May 26 at The Grafton, 20 Prince of Wales Road

1 thought on “Bye bye Fat Butcher. And hello Texas Joe”

  1. So, is Texas Joe going to be making Sunday roasts too? Ribs etc are fine and dandy, but it’s not exactly a balanced menu, is it?

    Fat Butcher have been great, but I think it’s a bit rich to compare them to the Bull & Last.

Leave a Comment

1 thought on “Bye bye Fat Butcher. And hello Texas Joe”

  1. So, is Texas Joe going to be making Sunday roasts too? Ribs etc are fine and dandy, but it’s not exactly a balanced menu, is it?

    Fat Butcher have been great, but I think it’s a bit rich to compare them to the Bull & Last.

Leave a Comment

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