Whilst Shoreditch seems simply to confirm expectations these days, is it fair to say that Camden Town confounds them?
Yes, the main drag is the usual bumpy sea of tourists and teens, but step away and a more intriguing breed of outlets is spreading, from bars like Brewdog and the Black Heart to stylish new restaurants such as the Foundry on Delancey Street or Shimogamo on Parkway. And what’s even better is that Camden’s alternative feel – if you so desire – is still very much in place. Just avoid the high street on a Saturday night.
Nowhere epitomises Camden’s blossoming s’phistication than a joint like Rosso Pomodoro. It’s the third London branch of a vast Italian empire originating in Naples (‘we fly everything, even the salt and pepper, over every week’, said the manageress. Haven’t they heard of air miles?)
But it’s the first outlet to boast contemporary decor, what we might call the Soho House school of rough luxe: unfinished ceiling, breeze blocks, white tiling, stripped back walls, industrial lighting, open kitchen, candles. And a good terrace at the front on busy Jamestown Road.
The weather was stuffy and overcast, so we sat alfresco with a beer and olives. We’d been invited, so thought we’d better accept a Southern Italian recommendation or two. Courgettes with fried calamari were a joyous pairing, their sunny citrus flavours working in harmony wth the obligatory Gavi Di Gavi. Even better, Buffalo mozzarella had ‘just arrived from Naples’. And wow, it was milky, light, perfect room temperature, the accompanying basil sweet and aniseedy. Yet did the tomatoes on the bruschetta, however, have as much flavour as they would back home?
Our waitress was pleasantly opinionated about what was best: she didn’t think we should try the ‘bianconero’, a black ink and white linguine with anchovy-based tomato sauce. But the fishy sliver – polite or not – is one of our all-time favourite ingredients and had to be sampled. She was right, however: its savoury flavour, deep in capers, black olives and garlic was more comfort food than signature dish. We were on safer ground with the pizza. Seduced into choosing a ‘gourmet’ number with the rather greedily named ‘Gustosella’ (£15.50!), its four sections combined mozarella and spicy salami, calzone with ham and ricotta, basil pesto, and rocket and cherry tomatoes. Crisp base with rich toppings, and it was mesmerizing to observe the boys lifting them out of the wood-fired oven with 6ft spatulas.
Yup, we were inside now, watching the large dining room fill slowly on a Wednesday night when every pub in the area was showing the football. But bread, pasta, pizza: Yikes! A food coma loomed, but still we shared a ‘Caffettuccio’ – pannacotta with a subtle coffee flavour and sambuca cream – before the much-needed hike back to NW5.
Service was faultless and we were impressed with the passion the waitresses brought to the table. It even made us discuss a revisit to Naples (although Mrs Kentishtowner still has nightmares of an aircon-less hotel room in the depths of July).
So our advice? Until Pizza East opens on Highgate Road, we advise you head here for the most glamorous new Italian dining experience in the manor.
Words & Pics: Stephen Emms
1 thought on “Secret Camden: Rosso Pomodoro, Jamestown Road”
Hmmm… we ate there tonight (Friday) and I’m not sure we’ll go again.. The main plus was that the food, as reviewed above, was great. We had the Scamorzina and Polpettuccia to start (both small but tasty) and the Tagliatella and Gustosella pizza for mains (all very nice).. but £70+ with a modest bottle of Montepuciano, it won’t be a meal we”l repeat.
If one compares their £15.50 Gustosella Pizza with Gordon’s most expensive pizza at York and Albany at £12.50 or ordering half a metre(!) of pizza at Old Street’s uber cool Meter for the same price..then I think they are going to have to drop their prices to make a real go of it in Camden (particularly considering it was mostly empty all night).