It’s fascinating how even middle-European cuisine has had a hipster re-rub; although, it could be argued that the vogue for Austrian dishes has long swept the capital, from the success of the Wolseley to the more recent Delaunay on Aldwych.
The concept of two north London-raised brothers, Ben and Ed Robson, the menu and recipes at Boopshi’s date back to their Austrian-born grandparents. For several years the pair travelled backwards and forwards to Vienna, researching and refining techniques. And then chucking in the inevitably on-trend London twist to it all.
So why here? “Before we stumbled across Boopshi’s permanent home in Fitzrovia,” says co-owner Ben Robson, “we were very keen to find a site here. Kentish Town’s food scene is a perfect mix of old and new. So, after our first residency came to an end at the Horseshoe in Hampstead, this was one opportunity we couldn’t turn down.”
They boys have tailored the menu at the Abbey to be more pub-friendly, eschewing some of the W1 restaurant’s fancier elements. Here, schnitzel burgers and sausages are the main event. There are also a few decent, seasonal salads (the broad bean, radish and asparagus looked good) and calorific sides such as spatzle ‘n’ cheese and coleslaw.
We obviously had to try the signature dish. It’s a traditional wiener schnitzel made from British rose veal, fried three times at decreasing heats, and – arriving in a sturdy brioche bun – with our choice of roast garlic and mustard mayo, made for a tasty, if not exactly, healthy lunch. Chips were OK: standard skinny-cut.
We also tried a chicken schnitzel with anchovies and red onion jam, the meat itself less flavoursome, and almost entirely overwhelmed by the salty sweet sauce. Yet a side of sauerkraut – pickled cabbage – provided a suitably sour edge, with its kick of cardamom and caraway.
Boopshi’s is worth investigating because it’s unique amongst both pub and other offerings in the area. The “schnitzel and spritz” tag is a great line, so it’s a shame that the classic Italian aperitifs don’t feature here, however, as they do at the original branch. I’d also like to see some of its menu items, like lamb’s kidney, sprats and fish stew. So, in fact, a visit to Fitzrovia would help clarify the concept.
And as for the Abbey? Well, it couldn’t be quieter on our weekday lunchtime visit, with the manager serving us in between painting the back room, and solo drinkers nursing dark pints of ale.
This was one party pub firmly in summertime dozing mode – a refreshing change from its more typical riotous atmosphere after dark.
