A few months ago we took a hard hat tour around work-in-progress watering hole The Constitution, the iconic pub that’s lurked on the banks of the Regent’s Canal since 1858.
Shut since just before Covid in 2020, and then rescued by new owners Young’s – also behind Kentish Town’s leafy Lion & Unicorn and the landmark Bull & Gate – it’s now reopened having spent a full year under scaffolding.
Now the Conny – as locals call it – is well and truly back pulling pints, fusing the comforting vibes of a traditional British pub with a sprinkle of something pretty darn contemporary.
We swung by earlier this week for a spot of lunch and to snoop round its eclectic new and revamped spaces laid out over three spacious floors.
Stepping inside the original entrance, the glimpse of the curved wood-panelled bar pulls you into a new larger casual drinking space that stands proudly overlooking the canal, with crittall doors opening out onto the huge waterside suntrap garden. There’s intricate floor tiling that feels like it’s been there forever, plenty of parquet wood, leather banquettes, mismatched chairs, framed local images and all manner of nooks and crannies to hide away in.
Upstairs is the the new extended rooftop terrace and bar, complete with handy retractable roof, with the pub’s name stencilled stylishly into the brickwork. It’s connected to the garden by a spiral staircase (there are indoor stairs too).
This new addition to the pub felt like the most enticing spot to have lunch. So we took a seat by the vast windows and admired the drizzly view over the water, as narrowboats drifted along, while a stream of curious passers-by drifted around the pub gawping at the different levels.
The seasonal menu champions British ingredients from head chef Jay Bond. Sure, there’s elevated fish and chips and a house burger or two, as well as rib-eye steak, but in addition to the classics you’ll be pleasantly surprised by some serious cooking. Pricing is decent too: most mains clock in at under £20 (with many in the mid-teens), while starters cost from £7.
The prettiest small plate, almost a palate-cleanser in its freshness, paired chunky blobs of Earl Grey-cured trout (see below) with zingy orange, vivid green oil and creme fraiche. Meanwhile, a trio of lamb belly croquettes sat on a spearmint-green whorl of creamy tarragon mayo, pickled shallots to cut through the meltingly rich slow-cooked meat.
Of the mains, a highlight were fillets of crisp-skinned wild stone bass in a shallow bowl of curried velouté with clams, samphire and sea beets, while arguably the best dish was just-pink smoked pork, cut in thick slices, with n’duja-smothered hispi cabbage and a rich dark walnut ketchup. Don’t miss out on the imaginative sides, either, such as cubes of salt-baked celeriac on sweet apple puree with the crunch of pistachio, or tenderstem broccoli garnished with almonds, maple and lemon for a hit of citrus sweetness.
We’re not dessert people, but nonetheless at £6.50 they might well draw you in too, whether it’s the satisfying crunch of the Black Forest bruleé with morello cherries or – our favourite – a fantastic rectangle of croissant bread and butter pudding in a smooth pool of custard.
As it’s Easter weekend, you might be considering Sunday lunch: there are sharing dishes of whole roast Cornish red chicken or confit lamb breast, plus vegan and vegetarian options, with double-yolk Yorkies and boats full of gravy. And a tempting brunch menu runs daily too, with well-priced dishes between £8-11.
Bars are dotted around on each floor, and we were pleased to see local breweries like Two Tribes on tap as well as the mighty Deya (top tip: Steady Rolling Man IPA) as well as local luminaries Camden Brewery, while a curated list of signature cocktails are infused with homegrown herbs and syrups. Up there on the terrace, the sun not quite peeping between the clouds, we pretended summer had hit with a glass of Cotes De Provence (from £9).
And finally, don’t forget the downstairs towpath cellar bar. It has its own laidback, low-ceilinged vibe, with a chalkboard of events to get involved in, from poetry readings and book clubs to beer tastings and supper clubs. Regular happenings include “Paw-some” Saturdays for Camden locals to head to the pub with their pooch for a 10am coffee whilst on Tuesdays there’s a Chess Club open to grand masters and rookies alike. From April 3rd, general manager Gen will be hosting a weekly pub quiz every Wednesday evening.
Main image: Nic Crilly-Hargrave
This is a sponsored post in association with Young’s. If you are a local or London-wide business who would like to speak directly to thousands of readers, please email: info@kentishtowner.co.uk
