What exactly is it? Probably the most famous sandwich shop in London, no less.
Really? Yep, as its own website humbly proclaims, it “changed the sandwich.” Quite a claim, indeed, but if you need more proof, here it is: after an acclaimed opening in 2014, the first spin-off cookbook, Max’s Sandwich Book, was a Sunday Times Top Ten Bestseller, plus owner Max Halley is a resident expert on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch and guest chef on ITV’s This Morning.
Well, I’m peckish now: is it worth the hype? Like anything that’s acclaimed, expectations are especially high. But happily, it’s extremely reliable.
Tell us more. Having failed to bag a spot on numerous weekend attempts – normally a 45-minute wait – the solution, we finally realised, was 630pm sharp on a wet March Wednesday. Yes, it was almost full, but we did manage to get a table-for-two without a wait.
What’s on the menu? Just four sarnies on the quirky handwritten document (pictured above), including an inventive sounding pickled veg spring roll number, and a poached chicken with grape and tarragon salsa. We plumped for the classic Ham, Egg & Chips (£11.95, main pic, above), slow-cocked ham hock with a fried egg, piccalilli, shoestring fries and a vinegary mayo; and Tikkanother Piece Of my Heart, a goat tikka masala (£12.95) with pickled onions, coriander, pomegranate, bombay mix and gravy mayo. Imaginative eh? They come mouthwateringly wrapped in brown paper you can peel away.
Which was tastier? Arguably the goat, although it was a closely-fought contest. Both were not as big as you might imagine for the price (probably no bad thing if you’re of a certain age), and they’re served on crust-off foccaccia, rather than sourdough, light as a feather. We were concerned a levelled-up side of ‘Spuds’ – crushed fried pots with a nut salsa, yoghurt, spring onions, mint and touch of curry – might be too much, but it really wasn’t.
Wine? Yeah, it’s £29 a bottle for decent house red, with various London craft beers and cocktails too.
Anything else we should know? This is really a sit-down sandwich restaurant with efficient, friendly waiting staff. So the bill might just end up higher than you think: ours climbed to over £70 with a bottle of wine and service charge. But that, of course, is dining in Zone 2 these days.
Was it worth it? Yes, to finally tick off a true North London pioneer. While no longer unrivalled – let’s face it, posh toasties and sandos have swept the city in the last decade – it’s still more than holding its own. And, of course, packing them in on that cold, dark Wednesday.
Max’s Sandwich Shop, 19 Crouch Hill N4, open Wednesday-Sunday, follow @lunchluncheon
Main image: Jonathan Perugia
If you’ve enjoyed reading this, perhaps you could help us out, too? Kentishtowner is now in its 13th year, but with the demise of our free independent monthly print titles due to advertising revenues, we need your support more than ever to continue delivering cultural stories that celebrate our neighbourhood. Every contribution is invaluable in helping the costs of running the website and the time invested in the research and writing of the articles published. Support Kentishtowner here for less than the price of a coffee – and it only takes a minute. Thank you.
