Where exactly is it? Right there on Fortess Road, but now a helluva lot bigger, with a contemporary new dining room and cosy cocktail bar in which to while away the winter.
What should I eat? You’ll know about Patron’s classic French menu, from garlic snails to onglet. We were there to road-test the Sunday roasts, which only launched a couple of weeks back. And wow, these are pretty special: see our main table shot, above.
You might opt for the 24-hour marinaded corn-fed poussin or cote de boeuf to share. We chose slow-cooked duck confit, whose tender flesh came away from the bone with the slight touch of a fork, its meatiness pimped up by a rich red wine reduction. Perhaps better still was an outstanding chargrilled and very juicy Cherry Orchard pork chop, attractively criss-crossed, apple sauce providing a welcome nip of acidity.
How about the all-important veggies? A tray of roast trimmings was heaving with sweet parsnips, buttery carrots vichy and a generous mound of creamed leeks and peas. We cleared the lot. Duck fat potatoes were crisp-yet-fluffy, while traditional, homemade Yorkshire puddings came accompanied with lashings of rich ox cheek gravy. Pleasingly, the whole affair feels like a French version of a roast – as it should – rather than a British pub version, with the emphasis on lashings of all-important flavour without needing a lie-down afterwards.
Desserts? We shared a little trio of mini desserts, a crisp-topped creme brulee, a tiny choc mousse and a couple of pear slices (see image, above).
The interior: discuss. It’s a stunning space, with period features from the original butcher’s shop, glimpsed through the unearthed wall tiles and meat hangers (take a glance up as you enter to spot them). Try and book one of the beautifully designed wood, leather and velvet booths.
And what do I drink? Our fantastic Cotes Du Rhone packed a whopping great punch at 15.8%; a double espresso was needed afterwards. And a negroni was, as always, the perfect aperitif.
What’s the vibe like? Very chilled, with the afternoon light streaming in as darkness fell at 4pm. And, with the candles lit, there’s that small matter of the cocktail bar should you choose to linger afterwards.
Patron is at 24-26 Fortess Road NW5 2HB, and now open for dining, as well as private hire and Christmas bookings. It is dog-friendly. Find out more and book a table here.
Kentishtowner ate as guests of Patron
