It’s a truth universally acknowledged that they forgot the predictably cute villagey bit when they built our very urban postcode. Or to be more accurate, it’s been bombed, covered up and redeveloped over centuries of “improvement.” And this lack of cohesion (with its attendant diversity) is perhaps why many of us love it.
It’s worth pointing out that the fringes are conventionally attractive: Swain’s Lane, South End Green, England’s Lane and of course Highgate and Hampstead all epitomise many people’s idea of a “London village”.
And it’s not that old or picturesque streets don’t abound in NW5, from Kelly Street’s dolly mixture pastels to sleepy Torriano Cottages and the imposing leafiness of Grove Terrace.
In 1897 the last of the green space was protected by covenant during the building of Lissenden Gardens (a sop to ensure the ambitious mansion block scheme was approved quickly). Therefore the village green remains in our midst today, against the odds and shaped by centuries of peculiarly Kentish Town decisions and histories. We’ve previously written about this story, and the secret bunker to be found there.
But let’s stop and return to the question in hand: where the hell is Kentish Town’s “village” today? Or let’s put it another way: where would you vote as most likely contender?
But of course the convention of an urban village in the capital and other big cities is zeitgeisty shorthand for “regeneration”, with whatever that entails (including broader social and economic realities that are often overlooked). It could be also a reaction against the demise of community, and the sense of anonymity in a large metropolis that is now increasingly unfashionable.
Whatever our definition, most would agree that a London village is an urban pocket with at least one parade or street of attractive architecture and probably some or all of the following: cafes, delis, boutiques, a pub or two, and most of all, a sense of community.
But as usual, in K-Town nothing is straightforward. And so it’s good that our below contenders, with the odd exception, are mostly mixed stretches with their own unique charms. So, without further ado, here are our contenders:
5. Brecknock Road?
4. Leverton Street?
It’s a diddy one – that’s if we can call it a village at all – but it boasts the acclaimed Mehmet’s Stores, where you can pick up a fresh-as-you-like Brick Lane beigel, and a world-famous pub to boot, with its cosy nooks and crannies, roaring fire, lively nights and decent Thai food. And the pastel houses qualify as the loveliest backwater of NW5.
3. Fortess Road?
Dear old Tuffers is really coming up in the world these days with its Fortess Road parade getting smarter by the second. Now it boasts a lovely array of interiors and gift shops, like Future & Found and Soho Hip, independent restaurants and outlets like Ruby Violet and Stingray, and classic old cafes like Rustique. Not the quietest stretch, mind. But that keeps it very NW5.
2. Oak Village?
The only place with the word village in its name is a delight to wander, with its tangle of picturesque streets of railway workers’ cottages (celebrity spotters can stalk Michael Palin here too). Then there’s the excellent micro coffee shop Houspresso, a good old-fashioned boozer in the soon-to-be relaunched Old Oak, and a quirky toy shop that hasn’t changed since the 1970s.
1. York Rise?
Dartmouth Park’s central vein, York Rise, which follows the course of the submerged River Fleet, is also geographically closest to the ancient village green. There’s a neighbourhood pub in the always pleasant Dartmouth Arms, a nice deli with decent coffee and a real community feel, a proper butcher’s, vet, and rated Indian. Plus it genuinely feels hidden away, Brigadoon-style. So where else could be our #1?
Don’t forget to click on each image to see it full size. But what do you think? Have we overlooked a hidden corner? Vote below.
Words & Pics: Stephen Emms
6 thoughts on “Wednesday Picture: Where the hell is Kentish Town’s “village”?”
don’t underestimate your positive role in making Kentish town feel more like a cohesive community. Like you show in your piece, ‘village’ or ‘villagey’ are not simply technical geographic terms. Its more descriptive of a cosy, but all important sense of identity. Just what we need in this city famed for unfriendliness. You guys have reinvented the ‘local rag’ in a very inspiring way. The important thing is to make sure the ‘village’ moniker keeps being meaningful and being more than surface gentrification. So its people making friends with their neighbours not just good espresso in attractive surroundings (not that excellent coffee is to be knocked!)
Why thank you, Lizzy. We do our best…
You’ve got the top 5 in the right order – 1 to 5. Nice one! John Pether
Leverton Street has got an amazing sense of community: I even said hello to one of my neighbours once.
good call on York Rise. don’t forget the York Rise estate at the bottom of the hill, a visionary piece of 1930s social housing. and continental provisions is a lovely shop too (and not madly expensive like the deli); try the baklava!
Leverton Street all the way