Having been born outside of London, it was always something of an eye opener when speaking with ‘real’ Londoners about the great North/South divide. And it turns out that South London is considered far too far to travel for some North Londoners. For Sarf Londoners, they feel they’re keeping it real, whilst their Northern chums seem to be a bit full of themselves. What’s more, if you’re moving to the city for the first time, it’s soon apparent that most people stick to their side of the river for the remaining years they live in London. A sort of postcode tribalism, if you will.
Having straddled the Thames myself, moving from Clapham to Kentish Town this year, I have nice memories of both sides of the great divide. So, how about considering a sortie south on an empty weekend, to the home of Vivienne Westwood, Professor Brian Cox and Chris Huhne MP?
It may look a long way on a TfL map, but the reality is that the Northern Line train whisks the fearless traveller southbound in about 35 minutes – and then you’re in the thick of it, in Clapham Common. Very much the green, beating heart of the area, and yet quite different from Hampstead Heath or Regent’s Park, Clapham Common manages to be a fantastic mixed use space as well as its focal point. Go on a Saturday and you’ll see Aussie Rules matches being played out cheek-by-jowl with informal cricket matches, competitive Aerobee matches, softball games and remote control speedboat races on the ponds. You get the picture.
Running alongside the Common is Clapham’s answer to England’s Lane in Belsize Park. ‘The Pavement’ is a curved street that sits at its heart. It leads to Clapham Old Town, a quaintish part of, er, the bigger town. Behind this urban triangle lies a small outdoor swimming pool (bring your Speedos in the summer). On the other side is a handsome, Stucco-fronted Grafton Square, complete with park and picnicking groups of young mothers. Why not peruse the fantastic butcher’s, M.Moen & Sons and pick up some game for the pot, darling? Or maybe a creamy tart from the Macaron Patisserie next door is more up your strasse? Or how about the Pavement Café, which does a fine line in tasty breakfasts, and well worth a look if you find yourself mooching southside pre-lunchtime.
Whilst Clapham High Street itself offers little for the newbie visitor (except for Breads Etcetera – they’ll be queuing for the fresh soda bread by the time you get there), the streets behind can yield surprise or two. Stroll away from the Common towards Clapham North tube, past Infernos (those of a certain vintage will have perhaps trodden those infamous carpets way back when) and dive off left. You’ll soon find the excellent Stonhouse public house, which boasts a pleasant little beer garden and cracking grub. Keep strolling on through Voltaire Road and you’ll see a quirky shop right under the railway arches.
Ah – and here’s the secret – it’s not strictly a shop. Secondo’s owner has a premises in Dalston (The Jazz Bar) and wanted to bring some of that N16 cool sarf of the river. It’s packed with vintage clothing, homemade food and booze aplenty, cos yes, it’s a bar too, with dozens of bright young things spilling out onto the road outside of a weekend.
So there you have it: abandon North London for a day and end up in a bar owned by someone from…North London. Oh well. Worth the hike anyway. Promise.
Words & Pics: Toby Doman
