North London Food & Culture

7 new takeovers, makeovers, openings and arrivals

Plus readers' survey results are in on whether you ever eat or drink in Camden Market

In the last monthly Substack we posed the above question to readers. As is clear, a resounding 60% said they “never” visit, with a more encouraging 21% saying “occasionally”, 15% “once a year” and 4% “all the time.”

The age-old problem seems to be attracting locals after dark to hang out in Camden Market – despite the 28 million visitors who make a beeline for it annually.

So will the first of our seven new happenings, rebooted pub the Dark Horse, pictured above, be the venue to do it? That’s what we wondered when we made the pilgrimage down to touristy NW1 the other week to see the latest incarnation of what was, until recently, The Farrier.


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At least the Dark Horse’s new owners, the guys behind the hit restaurant Le Bab, have as good a chance as any of making it a success. You never know, simple gastropub fare – pies, fish and chips, burgers – might just swing it, and even put the Stables back on everyone’s map – as it was, briefly, in 2017 when the awesome Cheese Bar initially opened.

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Patron’s Winter Garden

After the success of their bucolic secret garden last summer, Fortess Road’s longstanding French bistro – which unbelievably celebrates a decade this year – have launched a winter version, complete with plants, glowing candles and fairy lights, for the colder months. Hidden away behind the restaurant, it’s a cosy retreat under a long, French striped canopy with warmth from the outdoor heaters, set white-clothed tables, plush seating, soft furs and warm blankets draped over each chair. Date-night ready, indeed.

Lord Southampton’s food menu launches

The lovely Gospel Oak backstreet pub has a corker of a new food menu – all croquettes, anchovies and sausage rolls at very sensible prices. Hand-written specials include cottage pie, or pork chop with roast shallots and stout gravy. Small plates are around a fiver upwards, mains around ten. This feels seriously good value. And, say owners Aimee and Phil, the chef is Tom Ziehe (ex-Montcalm East).

Lord Southampton NW5
Lord Southampton. Photo: SE

Sweety Cooky: Junction Road’s tranquil spot

Need a quiet new cafe space to work from? This new Junction Road opening, below, is almost midway between Archway and Tufnell Park, although slightly nearer the latter. A counter of the usual pastries lie in wait for the sweet-of-tooth, while a long black – using Ozone beans – is a well-priced (for these parts) £2.50, and various toast options exist under a tenner. So, if you’re a freelancer, this feels like a good option to work; it’s far quieter than most of the cafes in Kentish Town, the many windows adding to the sense of airy calm.

Sweety Cooky. Photo: SE

The Great Indian opens

The Jolly Good Chef is the award-winning geezer behind this new N19 boozer on Marlborough Road. “With 28 years of hospitality expertise,” he says, “I’ve drawn from my extensive travels across India, from North to South, East to West, and curated a menu inspired by the diversity of regional cuisines, fusing flavours with a gastropub feel while honouring my Indian roots”. Sounds like an absolute must.

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Sourdough by Sofia hits Swain’s Lane

This sourdough queen – who also has a newish outlet near Highgate tube – excitedly shared her latest news last week on social media. “This location is a pretty special one for Jesse and myself,” she said, “as it was our home turf when I first moved to London – we spent many a weekend strolling around here in our early 20s.” The bakery opens opposite the Duke Of Saint Albans pub in March.

The Lord Stanley refurbed

Finally, in the unlikely event you didn’t know, one of Camden’s most stunning watering holes, the Lord Stanley, is currently being extensively refurbished and due to reopen in March (fingers crossed). Reader Rob emailed to say the plan is that the toilets are moving upstairs, the kitchen is being relocated and the bar will be a full circle. “They also tell me that the decor will remain the same – again, fingers crossed – as I was quite concerned about this.” Watch this space.

Just a little note (I’d love you to read this) Kentishtowner turns 15 soon – which isn’t too shabby for an independent food & culture site run on almost zero resources. And, as usual, a billion thanks to those who donate. But to put it into perspective, that’s just under 5% of readers in the last year. If you’re sitting on the fence a bit, maybe just ping over a couple of quid? After all, that’s cheaper than a coffee almost anywhere these days. Support Kentishtowner here

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The award-winning print and online title Kentishtowner was founded in 2010 and is part of London Belongs To Me, a citywide network of travel guides for locals. For more info on what we write about and why, see our About section.