1. Gawp in Granary Square
This artwork, pictured above, is both tranquil and captivating – and an unmissable sight if you venture down to canalside King’s Cross this winter. By award-winning British artist Liz West, Fluorescence draws inspo from “the light and joy that define the festive season” in its 11-metre structure that will remain in Granary Square until March 2025. There are bold stripes of fluorescent neon colours, contrasted with monochromatic tones. And, as you can see, it’s glorious by night, when we visited, a glowing, luminous centrepiece.
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2. Then admire the cosy traditional tree
Some more free public art? Temenos is the thought-provoking installation once again returning to Lewis Cubitt Square (round the back of Granary): by American-born artist Liliane Lijn, it’s designed to be a kind of magic circle in which you can immerse yourself (for the inevitable selfie). After viewing this you’ll undoubtedly be pleased to spy the regular festie tree towering high in the middle of Coal Drops. No less than 50 feet high, in fact.
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3. Grab a coffee at Mare Street Market – before the actual Markets
Hackney institution Mare Street Market opened behind Coal Drops Yard recently – and is worth a quick gander for a brew before hitting the festive market down on Lower Stable street, with a line-up of stallholders handpicked by Kiosk N1; while running until Dec 22nd is the annual Christmas Under the Canopy, the covered market next to Waitrose offering a selection of artisan traders and food stalls. This weekend (Dec 6th-8th) is its Vegan Christmas Market, with a range of vegan food, produce, skincare and homewares.
4. Hide away at the area’s best boozer
I love the King Charles, one of the few ‘proper’ London locals left in this area. Saved in 2015, thanks to the support of passionate locals, it’s a tiny front-room with roaring fire and juke box, now community-owned and listed as an Asset of Community Value in 2021. Warning: this homely spot gets justifiably rammed in a neighbourhood of ever-swankier restaurants bars. It’s also one of the most LGBTQ+ friendly spaces here, with a strict “no-wankers” policy. There are anarchic quiz nights, DJ and live music events too. You’ll want to pull up a stool at the small bar – and never leave.
5. Eat delicious food at the only BYOB in KX
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Back in the early 1990s, Thai cafe Paolina was home to an Italian café before a Thai family took it on to serve up Bangkok specialities: they’ve been here ever since. Its wood-panelled interior, with monochrome floor and retro seating, is timeless, while the central kitchen makes an appealingly hectic focus. Try kanom jeeb (chicken dumplings with fried garlic), or sesame toast, or superior pad thai jostling with plump, juicy prawns, beansprouts, spring onion and a mound of crushed peanut. If you arrive after about 630pm, it’ll be fully booked until 9pm – even on a wet Tuesday. Such is the life of this quality BYOB institution. 181 King’s Cross Road, London WC1X 9BZ
Main image: Stephen Emms
Kentishtowner turns 15 soon – which isn’t too shabby for an independent food & culture site run on almost zero resources. And, as usual, a billion thanks to those who donate. But to put it into perspective, that’s just under 5% of readers in the last year. If you’re sitting on the fence a bit, maybe just ping over a couple of quid? After all, that’s cheaper than a coffee almost anywhere these days. Support Kentishtowner here
