North London Food & Culture

Dartmouth Arms NW5

5 cosy pubs – from Kentish Town to Archway and Highgate

Yes, we love The Pineapple, Southampton Arms and The Stag. But here are some others to hide away in this winter

HIGHGATE: The Wrestlers

The Wrestlers
The fireplace at The Wrestlers. Photo: SE

Right now we’ve got a bit of a crush on this North Road boozer, located on the incline that sweeps down from Highgate village to the less haughty realness of East Finchley. It started in the summer, when we paid it our first visit in years and marvelled at a pub dating (astonishingly) back to 1547, despite the current building being Edwardian. Its crepuscular panelled interior is candlelit even by day, and the original 16th century fireplace will surely draw you in, especially in late October. Better still, it feels unpretentious. Even the roasts, at around the £15 mark, are well-priced for this most affluent corner of London. Above the fireplace it’s worth reading the history of a farcical oath dating back to the 17th century: it consists of a series of statements read by a clerk, confirming one’s “dedication to merriment and debauchery”: those being sworn in would agree to each statement, kiss or salute the horns, and be entered in a logbook for posterity. @the_wrestlers_highgate

DARTMOUTH PARK: Dartmouth Arms

The Dartmouth has been through its ups and downs over the years – remember when it was shut for what seemed like ever? – but right now, it’s never looked better (see main pic, above). The interior is candlelit, with open fire and Penguin classics, as well as sky-lit rear dining room: it’s a surprisingly tranquil experience befitted to the cosy valley of York Rise in tucked-away Dartmouth Park. And the menu has touches of Scandi influence, due to current owners Disappearing Dining Club, the food-and-drink duo of founder Stuart Langley and Swedish head chef Fredrik Bolin, who’ve hosted award-winning pop-ups across the capital for well over a decade. @dartmoutharms

ARCHWAY/HIGHGATE: Brendan The Navigator

Brendan The Navigator
Brendan The Navigator. Photo: Stephen Emms

Brendan of Clonfert was an early Irish monastic saint and, it says here, one of the Twelve Apostles of Ireland. Located on the lower reaches of Highgate Hill, no more than ten minutes’ walk from Archway tube, the fella is celebrated in a snug candlelit pub which is way more convivial than many further up that steep climb. Although the pub – with its worn-in vibes – feels like it’s been here forever, it in fact only opened in 2021, replacing The Tourian Lounge. The baby of John Rynne (a local musician) and head chef Michael Spurgeon (who ran Season Kitchen in Finsbury Park), the best time to visit is probably on Sundays, when there’s traditional live music sessions at 3pm and 7pm. @brendanthenavigator90


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Kentish Town: Tapping The Admiral

Alcohol-free beer fireside at Tapping The Admiral NW1. Photo: SE

It’s twelve years since one of North London’s best backstreet pubs opened, its huge success no surprise when you know that it’s owned by the people behind Kentish Town’s famous Pineapple. Built around 1850 as The Trafalgar, on the site of the old Castle Tavern, its quirky name comes from an old legend about Nelson: after the battle of Trafalgar in 1805, his body was returned to England preserved in a brandy barrel – which sailors would ‘tap’ for a cheeky drink. And the admiral himself would surely have approved of TTA’s own backstreet vibes, roaring fires, cosy corners, friendly punters, top craft beer and brilliant trad sessions from Whiskey Mick. In short, it’s perfectly suited to its whimsical strapline: ‘just between the coasts of Camden and Kentish Town’.  @tappingtheadmiral
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Hampstead Heath: Duke Of St Alban’s

Duke Of St Alban's
Duke Of St Alban’s. Photo: SE

Heath-walkers will no doubt already have popped into the latest (and geographically last) watering hole in NW5 (pictured above). In fact, isn’t it great that Swain’s Lane finally has its boozer back? When reviewing the awesome fish restaurant London Shell Co opposite a year ago, a pre-prandial pint on this street was the only thing we could think of that would improve the experience. Best of all, after a few false starts, it’s returned to the name it traded by from its inception in 1859 until 2008. Thus it’s no surprise that one of our preferred indie pub groups, Grace Land, is behind the simple refurb and pubby takeover: they run the excellent Axe in Stoke Newington, Camden’s hidden gem by the tube, the Black Heart – and our personal fave – the King’s Head in Bethnal Green. All in all, a very good sign that this newest NW5 boozer – stripped back and atmospheric – is once again here for the long run. @dukeofstalbans

Just a little note (I’d love you to read this)
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The award-winning print and online title Kentishtowner was founded in 2010 and is part of London Belongs To Me, a citywide network of travel guides for locals. For more info on what we write about and why, see our About section.