Where exactly is it? The uniquely-named Half Cut Market is in that curiously liminal area on the cusp of Islington and Camden. It’s neither Holloway, Tufnell nor Kentish – and yet despite being on York Way, not quite King’s Cross either. It is however, just across the main road from Brecknock Road, a longstanding haven in N7 for indie businesses like Bumblebee, Salvino and Bread By Bike.
Wherever you call it, this strip has been crying out for a decent restaurant for, ooh, as long as we can remember.
And here it is. So what goes on there? While Half Cut is now a fully grown-up restaurant, it opened in 2021 as wine bar, shop and deli, founded by four north London friends – Danny, Holly, Edwin & Paul – with “decades of hospitality experience” between them (including Noble Rot, The Marksman & 40FT Brewery). It was soon holding sell-out pop-ups and supper clubs, putting it firmly on London’s ever-sprawling foodie map.
Great. What should I eat? New chef Jack Newton was previously head chef at the revered Hen’s Teeth, Dublin – and his creative and rather eclectic approach shows in a short but inspired menu.
Our pick of the small plates included the quiet fire of hot and sour tomatoes with grilled peaches and mint, an unusual combination that, with its notes of chilli, garlic, ginger and rice vinegar, brilliantly stimulated the tastebuds. This was followed by delicate steamed clams topped with textural pangrattato and herby gremolata, and moreishly tender sticky-sweet fried chicken with gochujang.
For health reasons (natch) we also munched on bright red radishes given a slight umami thwack by smooth green goddess sauce and a green salad with za’atar. Another highlight, meanwhile, was jalapeno panisse (fried polenta balls), with a vivid pepper salsa crowned by lashings of shaved parmesan.
The interior: discuss. Think houseplants, white tiling, bare pendants. Fridges line one wall, with a stream of walk-ins swinging by for their weekend booze purchases. Along the other wall are just a handful of tables with a small counter to perch at behind, the kitchen visible at the rear.
A pavement terrace at the front was attractively busy on a Friday night, west-facing to catch the evening sun. It was holiday vibes all the way, reminding us a little of the laidback Northdown Road in Cliftonville, just up from Margate’s Old Town.
And what do I drink? It’s all premium low-intervention natural wines and the very best craft beers here. The delicious Dorchester-based Langham Estate fizz was a little too quaffable, while a spot-on natural Spanish pale rose did its job straddling seafood, chicken and veggie dishes. And cocktails are priced sensibly: a mezcal negroni (£9) was a pleasingly smoky take on the classic, while a signature ‘Half Cut Martini’ combined vodka and gin – and is only £8.
What’s the vibe like? The young team are all extremely knowledgeable, without being overbearing with their suggestions or recommendations: harder to pull off than it sounds. And there’s something about the fluidity of the place – half this, half that – which creates an easygoing atmosphere that seduces you to stay for just one more. Or then again, maybe it’s that slightly off-the-beaten-track location.
Main photo: Colin Bannon
Kentishtowner ate as guests of Half Cut Market.
