Where exactly is it? On the high street, directly opposite The Oxford pub. This site has had numerous incarnations, most famously as long-running and much-loved community café Flapjacks, and most recently a short-lived fish and chip shop. Supreme Doner Kebab set up shop earlier this year.
So what goes on there? It’s a traditional Turkish grill with contemporary and spotlessly clean stylings. A look at Instagram reveals, surprisingly, that it’s the “fastest growing kebab shop in the UK” and there are actually nine branches, everywhere from Woking to Wanstead in east London, of which Kentish Town is the latest.
What should I eat? The obvious choice would be a signature carnivorous doner or shish, which start at £7. But the other day in passing we were attracted by the posters in the window advertising the all-day veggie special wraps for just £5.
Sounds tempting. Yep, there are two to choose from – one falafel and hummus, or a halloumi and vegetable. We opted for the former, expecting perhaps a small, two-bite lunchtime-sized snack – but were impressed by the sheer goddam size of the thing. Before being rolled up to eat, its circumference must have been an exceedingly healthy 12 inches, and it was liberally smothered with hummus, moist slices of falafel and a bespoke salad – ours being rocket, tomatoes, chilli and garlic sauce, red cabbage and jalapeño pepper. Delicious, messy and filling: you’ll need a napkin or two afterwards.
The interior: discuss. It’s all bumblee bee yellow-and-black furnishings and comfortable enough to eat in; the only snag at lunchtime was a huge order from a group of local builders which meant a 20-minute wait.
Would you go back? Yes: next time it needs to be the shish. But for a fiver, the meat-swerving special is possibly the heartiest lunch you can get at the price locally.
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