Oh Market how we miss you! Long before the others, this elegant little Parkway diner served up astonishingly good onglet and chips to greedy (and in-the-know) locals.
But should you find yourself knocking around NW1 at lunchtime and don’t fancy the stroll either to the reliable Patagonia, down near Mornington Crescent, or Beef & Brew in Kentish Town, we have a new recommendation: Roadkill.
You may not immediately be convinced by the name of this new stall (it’s a little squeamish-sounding) from chef Matthew Gregson-Jones and partner Jamie Patel – but there’s no doubting the quality of offer. Vegans look away now: they use every part of the animal and all meat is butchered on-site.
With only three mains on the menu, you can order Dexter bacon cheeseburgers, 35-day aged beef or a steak salad. These are accompanied by 5-hour slow roasted beef-dripping fries and home-made sauces.
On our visit a 225g sirloin – rib-eye or fillet is the same price – arrived sliced and rosy, pillowy enough to eat strip by strip with either naked paw or cutlery, depending on how civilised you’re feeling.
To accompany this we gobbled a superior seasonal slaw of sprout, fennel and carrot, lightly dressed, to add vits to the (yikes) generous pile of fries.
Cost-wise, it’s £12.50 for the steak-and-chips, and £2 for the (completely optional) slaw; we then returned a week later and enjoyed the rich smokiness of a pulled beef burger special (£8).
Oh, and time your meal carefully: the tiny counter has room for just two stools, although there are sharing benches just behind it. Let’s just hope they can expand to a proper bricks-and-mortar restaurant soon.
And it goes without saying that, despite the moniker, don’t turn up with a squirrel you’ve found in the middle of Chalk Farm Road.