This Southeast Asian gem is the first permanent space for Mandy Yin, the chef-owner hailing from Kuala Lumpur. Three years ago she ditched the chicken satay burger that had garnered a strong following on the streetfood scene in favour of concentrating on the spicy noodle soup of her homeland, a dish increasingly asked for.
Arrive early and put your name down on what is likely to be a lengthy list, then scoot off to a pub and await a call – a great system indeed. After receiving ours, we’re shown to a spot at the counter and watch the masters deftly at work. Attentive service ensues, and with a glass of Reisling in hand, we peruse the menu.
Up next is the signature laksa: we opt for poultry and prawn. Mouthwateringly good and unapologetically fiery, the steaming bowls are filled with a rich, coconutty broth (the homemade paste contains twenty ingredients), still-crunchy sticks of vibrant green beans and pieces of spongy tofu that have sucked up the moreish liquid. Buttery soft halal poultry and just-cooked seafood are carefully placed on top. Fancy a cheeky extra? Try a Clarence Court egg, soft boiled to perfection.
A plate of appetising-looking beef rendang catches our eye as we leave. “I don’t like holding back,” says Mandy. Chilli fiends, this is one for you.
Main image: Angela Sam