Archway Kebab may have long been in the know for locals – selling superior fodder to cram down one’s maw after a night traversing the hostelries of Junction Road – but we’d never actually tried a prized offering ourselves.
Until last night, when we finally popped by, after a beer or three nearby.
Its most high profile patron? Why, none other than Theresa May’s bête noire himself. The only slight problem is that Jez doesn’t endorse the ‘babs themselves. As a strict vegetarian, he appreciates “doner shops are linchpins of the community” – but always plumps for the falafel. Fair enough.As for our chicken shish (it just wasn’t falafel o’clock, ok)? Not bad at all for a fiver. The chargrilled pieces of breast were tender enough, there was a “strong and stable” dollop of garlic mayo, and spicy tomato sauce to lend some heat. And as you can see, the salad was fresh and crisp, providing ample evidence that the meal is actually a healthy option at past twelve on a school night. We asked a local lady-about-town for her thoughts. “It wins awards for being one of the best kebab shops in Britain let alone London,” says Archway With Words organiser Steph Smith. “In fact I seem to remember something about the owner being an inventor of some kebabby technology or other. It’s also blindingly clean with spotless chefs which is always reassuring. Their meat dishes are obviously popular, but this is actually a great place for veggies. Their falafel is fresh made, not generic, and full of flavour as is their hummus – you can taste the sesame and quality oil. Halloumi salads are great too – salty, chewy and grilled just right.”
Praise indeed. And note the classy exterior, redesigned by Lyndon Goode as part of a £2million high street regeneration programme three years ago.
Fancy more from the Corbyn gastronomic trail? He’s often to be found down the road at the excellent Zia Lucia pizzeria, too.