It’s a hard call, but in this instance we’ve purposely avoided the commonplace or the over-crowded. So while we can’t resist Camden Beach, for example, or the beer gardens at popular pubs like The Stag or Junction Tavern, they’re hardly unknown, and so don’t make the cut.
We’ve also eschewed invariably always rammed Regent’s Park and Primrose Hill in favour of the quieter corners of the Heath – as well as other, more obscure green spaces in the wider area. Plus a host of gardens behind cafes, pubs, restaurants and summertime pop-ups too.
And as for the numbering? It’s fairly arbitrary – although Hampstead Pergola is indisputably our numero uno.
1. Hampstead Pergola
2. Water garden, Golder’s Hill Park
A few minutes’ walking further west, with views over suburban northwest London is this grassy expanse, the former site of a large house bombed during World War II. Head straight – via the quirky animal enclosures, which include donkeys, lemurs and maras – to the beautifully tended flower garden. There’s a duck pond with a small hump-back bridge, and a separate water garden, which leads onto a larger pond, home to both black and white swans.
3. Kentish Town City Farm’s sheep enclosures
NW5’s famous animal haven needs no introduction, of course, its picturesque urban railway lands being a popular weekend jaunt for many locals. But the most tranquil spot – arguably – is its south-eastern tip, just pass the ponds, where sheep graze in (almost) pre-lapsarian bliss under railway arches not yet given over to coffee shops or micro-breweries. 1 Cressfield Close NW5
4. Mosaic, Archway
A staple since the late 90s, this tube-side spot offers simple pizzas and pastas in a spacious interior; a decent spot for an unfussy lunch or low-key dinner. But the star attraction is outside: a sensational Mediterranean haven, complete with palm trees, bamboo and tropical plants, which has seating, both covered and exposed as the weather determines. 24 Junction Road N19
5. Hampstead Peace Garden
Adjoining the newly rebuilt Hampstead Heath overground station is a former wasteland, bought a few years ago by local traders, residents and visitors, who happily volunteered to transform it into a woodland glade. Explore timber steps, informal seating, small ponds and a wishing-well feature with climbers, magnolias and interesting pathways. And it’s perfect to watch the ‘busyness’ of the station from above.
6. Michael Nadra
After you pass the quirky Pirate Castle on the Regent’s Canal, and just before the dreamy houses of St Mark’s Crescent – whose lawns dangle onto the water, willow trees rustling in the breeze – take a right up the alleyway that leads to Gloucester Road. Here you’ll stumble across a half-hidden Grade II-listed horse tunnel beneath swanky new apartments. The upscale restaurant is Michael Nadra, with bargains to be had if you eat off-peak. And the peaceful terrace is the real winner, a true waterside idyll. 42 Gloucester Avenue, NW1
7. York & Albany’s beach hut
The sunny coast of Cornwall is the theme for the former coaching inn’s courtyard summer pop-up. Pull up a deckchair or chill on the sand surrounding the candy-coloured striped hut. On the menu? Why, rum slushies, mini fish ‘n’ chips, a beach BBQ and bucket and spades. Don’t forget the shades. 127-129 Parkway NW1
8. Camden Arts Centre
A very solid walk up Haverstock Hill and west (a bit) is this slightly misnamed place for world-class contemporary art exhibitions and education. But did you know about its lovely garden? There are tables and chairs to dine on food from the café, and a lush green space in which to picnic, read and observe the wildlife. Arkwright Road, NW3
9. Belsize Wood
Adjacent to the modernist Isokon building is this deeply shaded local nature reserve. Opened back in the 1980s, it’s a steeply sloping site divided into a northern half, always open, and a southern part that’s open only at weekends. Expect ash and sycamore trees, and lots of birds singing their hearts out. And did you know a railway tunnel runs underneath, built back in the 1860s?
10. Elm Village eco park
Urban Growth is a charity which supports adults with mental health problems, and their scenic allotment and garden in this unknown corner of Camden really is well worth a detour. There’s an orchard, herb garden and rows of veg, from bulbous spring onions to lettuces and strawberries. They also supply Kentish Town’s Veg Box scheme, as well as various pubs. Elm Village NW1
11. Camley Street Natural Park
Back in 1981, this former coal drop was saved from being turned into a lorry park by local campaigners. An amazing variety of landscapes and creatures exist across wetlands, meadow and woodland. No wonder it’s such an educational hotspot for local kids. Don’t miss the newish architect-designed Viewpoint, a floating platform on its eastern tip commissioned by the Finnish Institute in London. 12 Camley Street N1C
12. Colonel Fawcett
Randolph Street is one of Camden’s more industrial thoroughfares, with its railway bridge, sprawling tyre shop and peeling Victorian terraces. The thirtysomething owners of the Fawcett tarted up the failing boozer a few years ago now, building up a careful reputation for seasonal food. But lesser known is the lovely oasis out the back, with herbs, exotic plantings and covered booths. 1 Randolph Street NW1
13. Montpelier Gardens
Originally the grounds for Montpelier House, this small leisure space opened to the public in 1976 after local residents campaigned to save the adjoining Regency house from demolition. Once boasting “grand views” over to Islington, it was then variously a rest centre, old people’s home and flats. Now the house is, of course, Montpelier nursery, a beautiful eco building. Off Montpelier Grove NW5
14. Gipsy Queen
Malden Road’s lofty boozer houses a very lovely leafy courtyard in which to kick back with a spritz. Expect festoon lights strung back and forth, fixed booths and covered areas. Its length is canopied by gorgeous cherry trees, from which hang lots of twinkly lights, and there are plenty of sun-soaked spots as well for the sun seekers. 166 Malden Rd, NW5
15. The treehouse at the Abbey
Hemmed in by tall buildings, and east-facing so mostly shaded, the Abbey nonetheless boasts the biggest beer garden in central K-Town. But if it rains, why not clamber up the rickety wooden steps to the treehouse? After dark, not only is it magical but there’s lively people-watching too: teens, students and funkateers. 124 Kentish Town Road NW1
16. Caledonian Park
Caledonian Park – and its majestic tower – is one of north London’s most atmospheric and underrated spots. Once a pleasure resort and tea garden called Copenhagen House, in 1855 the site was redeveloped as the Metropolitan Cattle Market. Slaughter houses were close by, and the whole site was enclosed by railings, the columns of which were topped with cast iron heads of the animals traded. At each corner, rowdy market pubs provided accommodation and entertainment for folk visiting: The Lion, The Lamb, The White Horse and The Black Bull. Today, three of the four remain (as posh flats) and, with the clock tower, are listed structures. Caledonian Park was structured in 1970 and planted with woodland.
17. Talacre Gardens
In 2015 the western perimeter of Kentish Town’s underrated park was expanded on to previously unused ground on Talacre Road. The result? More trees and paths are now included, its effect surprisingly bucolic. Once the park gets a much-needed ‘dogs-on-leads’ policy, it will well and truly be the calm space it should be. Prince of Wales Road NW5
18. The churchyard of St Mary Magdalene
Head south-east from Kentish Town towards Highbury and you’ll pass by one of the finest early 19th century churches in London, situated in pleasingly shady gardens that have been restored in recent years. Nearby is Freightliners City Farm, an urban oasis dating back to the 1970s and now home to goats, rare breed pigs and lambs. Holloway Road, London N7
19. Bintang
This longstanding lower Kentish Town Road pan-Asian joint is candle-lit and cosy during the winter months, but there’s a totally different atmosphere in the spacious backyard once the sun’s out. Graffitied walls, sharing tables, a covered area and proper party vibe are the backdrop to the good-value sharing plates and BYO booze action. Try the wasabi prawn tempura, piled high with cod roe. Yum. 93 Kentish Town Road NW1
20. Arancini Brothers
A couple of years ago the owners of the hit local café cleaned up the backyard, whipped out the astroturf, and constructed more of that thriftily utilitarian (if slightly strange) plywood furniture. There’s the odd tree and a pungent bed of herbs or two, and the estate looming behind the branches. It’s juxtaposition, in the true Kentish Town way, and it works, a balmy place to enjoy their 100% arabica beaned expresso. 115a Kentish Town Road NW1
21. Athlone House grounds
With views of one of London’s finest Victorian piles (currently holding out against its proposed redevelopment) this blissful north-eastern corner of the Heath is a far cry from the weekend madness of the Ponds, or busy Kenwood House. Relax on the secluded lawn area, or admire the rhododendrons. You never know: you may even have it to yourself.
This article was updated in May 2017
Please support us if you can
In October 2020, Kentishtowner will celebrate its 10th birthday (unbelievable, right?). But with the demise of our free independent monthly print titles due to advertising revenues in freefall, we need your support more than ever to continue delivering cultural stories that celebrate our neighbourhoods. Every reader contribution, however big or small, is invaluable in helping the costs of running the website and the time invested in the research and writing of the articles published. Support Kentishtowner here for less than the price of a coffee – and it only takes a minute. Thank you.
