Sure, Archway Kebab has long been in the know for locals – selling superior fodder to cram down one’s maw after a night traversing the hostelries of Junction Road – but yesterday’s endorsement in the Evening Standard by London’s hippest sexagenarian is surely going to send business soaring.
The only downer? Er, he didn’t endorse the ‘babs themselves. As a strict vegetarian, Jez, said the article, appreciates “doner shops are linchpins of the community”, but always plumps for the falafel. Fair enough.
We asked our Archway correspondent, and all round lady of the manor, Steph Smith, what she made of the joint.
“It wins awards for being one of the best kebab shops in Britain let alone London,” she said, not without enthusiasm. “In fact I seem to remember something about the owner being an inventor of some kebabby technology or other. It’s also blindingly clean with spotless chefs which is always reassuring. Their meat dishes are obviously popular, but this is actually a great place for veggies. Their falafel is fresh made, not generic, and full of flavour as is their hummus – you can taste the sesame and quality oil. And halloumi salads are great too – salty, chewy and grilled just right.”
Yum. So wherever you dwell in north London, it’s probably worth the hike – or otherwise – to check out a takeaway so loved by the community its stylish exterior even won a redesign by a local architect.