North London's Cultural Guide

A tenner or less: #3, Chicken, greens and bacon at Gipsy Queen

There's one dish at this new pub in Gospel Oak that you should cross town for

Bargain at £9. Photo: GQ
Bargain at £9. Photo: GQ

Where? The refurbed 1930s boozer in Gospel Oak, now a stylish destination with original fireplaces, and reclaimed wooden floors. There’s a corker of a ‘secret’ garden to boot, with cosy booths, table service and festoon lights.

What? Free range seared skin-on chicken breasts, cooked so on-point that they carve like butter, with crispy smoked bacon and spring greens. The dish comes with an ickle jug of sauce, the creamy chicken stock and parsley adding a further degree of luxuriousness. Full marks for imaginative presentation, too.

Magical: dining garden too. Photo: SE
Magical: dining garden. Photo: SE
Why? A bargain at £9, it deserves to be known locally as head chef Tom Humphries’ signature dish.

Don’t: Ignore the (pricier) starters, if you’re making a meal of it. We particularly rate the heritage tomatoes with basil ice (£7.50) and guinea fowl, polenta and leeks (£8.50). The bar menu has cheaper options too, including superior toasted sarnies (£5), a gorgeous Scotch egg (£5) and sharing charcuterie board (£8).


Notes: It’s owned by The Grafton so standards are high throughout, although service can sometimes be uncertain. Still, the garden is everso lovely to lounge in with one of the many craft beers, like Four Pure or Lawless.

Open daily from midday. Gipsy Queen, 166 Malden Road NW5

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