We’re sure there are probably weirder puddings to be found in the capital (do let us know if you’ve found a particularly wild one), but our recent meal at Kentish Town’s friendly Thai canteen Baan Thai reached an unexpected taste crescendo when we gingerly decided to sample their durian ice cream.
For those not familiar with this spiky southeast Asian fruit, durian is most renowned for its pungent smell, to the point where carrying it on Singapore’s metro system has famously been banned ($500 fine if the authorities sniff so much as waft, and they WILL find it, however well hidden in that bag of shopping).
It boasts an unusually high sulphur content and a custardy flesh, meaning it tastes, smells and goes down a little like, er, rotten eggs. Yet it is hugely popular among connoisseurs of its acquired pungent, bittersweet delights.
So what was our experience like? Well, the emergence of the ice cream didn’t get any noses twitching at neighbouring tables, however once in the mouth, the funky flavour was overpowering. The vaporous aromas combined raw onion, raw sewerage, burning plastic and a serious gas leak.
Still, it was strangely moreish (to a point), if only because the gaseous flavour was so unlike anything else. There’s a degree of one upmanship among those who profess to love this fruit, and it’s definitely the Marmite of the regions where it’s grown. “Like someone farted in your mouth,” as one wit at the table fairly comprehensively nailed it.
Have you tried it?