North London Food & Culture

Free Weekend? Find this secret chippy on Waterloo Road

Phoebe Lowndes on a tucked-away spot she reckons is one of London's best

A fish platter at Masters Super Fish
Tempting fish platter at Masters Super Fish. Photo by Phoebe Lowndes

Back in time, before our second date, my bloke-to-be texted to confirm our fledgling plans. The location left mysterious, I was quite excited by the prospect of being wined and dined.

Cut to our rendezvous outside a less-than-glam restaurant and takeaway on Waterloo Road. Yet initial surprise at the choice of establishment gave way to anticipation as we were hit by a warm waft of vinegar.

Masters Superfish

To start? A towering pile of bread and butter, followed by fresh prawns on the house. The main is served alongside gravy boats of homemade tartar sauce and a choice of pickled onion or a wally (pickled gherkin). Every time I visit, I order the same plate of cod and chips, never tempted to stray, as it’s excellent value for money at £8 a plate; or £9.50 for the Masters special (a monstrous 247g of battered cod). Yikes.


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The fish is flipped straight from the fryer onto a plate groaning with chips. Delicate flaky fish reaches right into every nook of its coating, certainly not batter over substance here. The lighter option looks every bit as appealing as the calorific treats: king prawns in garlic butter, sardines, swordfish steak, skate wing – to name just some of the grilled fare, all for around a tenner.

Taxi drivers flock from all over London to frequent this small caff; I’ve counted up to nine black cabs parked up outside. The relaxed atmosphere and no-fuss table service draws a low-key crowd, but the cheeky banter will certainly keep you entertained. The menu proclaims “it’s the groundnut oil that makes all the difference”. We say it’s the superbly fresh fish, sourced daily from Billingsgate market. The restaurant only drops a point for the surly waiting staff. Having visited countless times, there’s never an ounce of recognition; and that irks me.

Washing our meal down with house white, we left feeling we were in on a secret – in fact, Masters had revived my love of fish and chips. So now our Friday-night-fish-supper outings have become a monthly pilgrimage, where else could possibly match up? I investigate some others on our sister site Below The River here.

Find Masters Super Fish at 191 Waterloo Road, SE1. Eat-in prices from £8

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