Big Review: The Vine, Highgate Road

Back in the late 90s, my old boss would say to anyone that listened that there were just two places to eat in Kentish Town. The first was the Petit Prince, a quite legendary Gallic bistro in what is now the perfunctory Troy’s Cafe on Holmes Road.

And the second was The Vine, always handy for a gig at the Forum afterwards. Back then, I’d always prefer to eat in the pub’s characterful secret back garden, its mirrors and marquee making it cosy in winter, and sweltering in summer.

Many incarnations later (including a slightly odd wood-fired pizza phase in the late noughties) The Vine reopened properly back in summer 2011. And we were impressed by the uncompromising menu of cicchetti and sharing plates, while a little unsure about the new stark interior with its loss of the old fireplace (now an area for “groups”) and rear yard (now the main restaurant). Still, the tiered garden and covered dining terrace were unique in Kentish Town.

With the flurry of new openings in the last two years, and sister pub The Oxford freshly spruced-up, how’s The Vine holding up? Has the Soho House triumvirate opposite helped or hindered it? Invited to try their summertime menu, we were curious.

First then, the cicchetti, those little tiny plates of Venetian origin. We opted for a handful to nibble on: a simple crostini with broad bean, goat’s cheese and mint had depth (see main pic), while artichokes, marinated in lemon and oregano, were tangily chargrilled. Not quite as effective? A smallish carpaccio with tangy pecorino, capers and truffle oil, and arancini balls with a hint of smoked haddock so light they actually needed the kick of aioli.

The rain was hammering down outside but we were in defiantly summery mode, so glass of pink Sancerre in hand (from a pithy, chalked-up wine list) we shared a salad, a pasta and a main.

There’s undeniably something about the cooking here that is impressive: gnocchi were meltingly soft, with heat and texture from the ham hock, mustard and peas. And a meaty roast fillet of hake was enhanced by the saltiness of samphire, a caper dressing, and aniseedy basil.

But best of all? Polenta, asparagus, gorgonzola, peas, rocket, broad beans (right): crispy, earthy, cheesy, fiery and sweet sensations all jostling for attention on the tongue; and a truly sizeable portion for £6.50. We could only conclude that the chef is more than adept at vegetarian dishes, and it’s no mean feat – as we reported last week at new King’s Cross opening Grain Store – to make them shine as brightly as flesh.

To finish? An artful construction of strawberry shortbread with very spicy black pepper ice cream – gorgeous to look at while actually being our least favourite dish; that sweet-savoury thing just sometimes doesn’t quite come off, does it? But it was fun anyway, and some will love its peppery kick.

Delighted, we returned a couple of weeks later with relatives, same time (Saturday lunch), the weather a lot hotter. But some of the dishes just weren’t as successful, particularly the beef carpaccio and broad bean crostini  (both too dry), and our much-loved polenta, which had changed ingredients (fair enough, the menu is seasonal), but whose new incarnation didn’t juxtapose textures and flavours in the same way. On the upside? Two of our party had sirloin and chips:  tender, pillowy and buttery. And the gnocchi was equally good.

So what to conclude? The Vine has the swagger of being on a strip of first class options which includes – of course – Southampton Arms, Bull & Last and Chicken Shop. And you’ve got Pizza East over the road for high octane, high-kicking weekend dining, all speed, volume and energy; while here is a much more laid back affair, and – if you’re lucky – some innovative cooking to boot. Like many places, inconsistency is apparently an issue, but the concept is one to be reckoned with.