North London Food & Culture

Free Weekend? Explore Venice (or how to eat and drink well in the backstreets)

Stephen Emms goes in search of the best bacari, the tiny hidden wine bars that serve up cicheti and spritz

Two contemporary art galleries

Tre Oci, Giudecca

Tre Ochi, Giudecca. Photograph: Stephen Emms
Tre Ochi, Giudecca. Photograph: Stephen Emms

The Giudecca waterfront is now peppered with galleries all along, so much that some are calling it the ‘Soho’ of Venice. It certainly feels more authentic than many other parts, and at Tre Oci celebrated Italian photographer Gianni Berengo Gardin has a retrospective in another of Giudecca’s atmospheric waterside palazzos.


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Catch his evocative images: Venice in acqua alta; a child skipping in a backstreet; a regatta; and famously, a car with a couple overlooking sea. Thought-provoking pictures filmed inside mental hospitals and gypsy camps too.

Stunning views over San Marco basin. Current exhibition runs till 12 May (8 Euros entry).

Punta Della Dogana Contemporary art

Outside Punta Della Dogana
Outside Punta Della Dogana

Dorsoduro’s Calle a Gregorio is an appealing narrow stretch of galleries and scenic canal bridges which throws out the visitor in front of Santa Maria Della, visible from across the whole city. Next door is another prominent late 17th Century building, at the point where the Grand Canal and Giudecca canal meet, a customs house until mid 1990s redeveloped as a contemporary art gallery in 2009. The interior is a beautiful minimal space of wooden beams and red brick and, on our visit, boasted a fine international roll call of names: too many to mention, but suffice to say Donald Judd, Jeff Koons, Paul McCarthy, Roni Horn, Bruce Nauman and, particularly, Edward Kienholz.

Accommodation

BPHS - cloister barlo

Accommodation was provided by the Bauer Palladio Hotel & Spa on Giudecca. The former convent has 50 bedrooms, private gardens and breathtaking lagoon views, whilst the spa offers a range of therapies and massages.

We particularly enjoyed the candle-lit 1920s deco-style restaurant: try the melt-in-the-mouth swordfish carpaccio, or lightly perfumed veal; or, better stoill, a pillowy beef fillet with truffle potatoes and rich herbs (Mains around 20 euros+). Rooms start at 300 Euros a night. Visit their website here.

Venice March 13 galleriaToo expensive? Try Hotel Galleria
Venice is mightily pricey for accommodation, and here we had a slither of a room for 105 euros a night, slightly confused staff, and views right on Grand Canal.

Flights

There are plenty of cheap budget deals online, but we flew with BA, around £225 per person when booked 4 weeks upfront.

Words & Photographs: Stephen Emms


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