Six Fantastic Bacari
Aided by Russell Norman’s Polpo book we set out to tick off a few bacari – those hidden backstreet wine bars – on an enjoyably boozy Saturday afternoon crawl. Cicheti – bite-size tapas-style snacks made with eggs, olives, seafood, meat or vegetables – do vary in quality but are reliably good at the places below:
All Arco
Spritz are ubiquitous and vary hugely in price in Venice. If you like a sweeter drink, ask for Aperol; bitter, go for Campari. In a basic bar without any pretensions they hover at 2-2.50; in bacari around 4 euros, and up to 12 in posh bars and hotels. All’ Arco is hidden away behind the fish market and probably the best bacaro we tried. It’s miniscule; just enough room inside for a press of eager punters in an ill-organized queue. Foresti – rosy cheeked young out-of-towners – flock here; on our visit gangs of what we might call stag parties were all whooping it up over prosecco or Campari. Corks popped as we tucked into three rounds of cicheti (see pic above), the best of which was their signature creamed salt cod. San Polo 435, Calle dell’Occhialer (Cost: 3 rounds of cicheti & 2 campari spritz – 14 Euros).
Do Mori
This has a ye olde worlde feel, dating back – rumour has it – to 1462. It’s an atmospheric corridor, again standing room only, from whose ceiling copper pots and pans dangle. Quiet on our arrival – we assumed it was suffering due to the success of nearby All’ Arco – but soon a heaving sea of puffa jackets, and those excitable, tipsy foresti. Cicheti isn’t as good as its rival, the bread noticeably soggier, but still some sharp flavours. Think anchovy, egg, sardines. San Polo 429, Calle dei Do Mori (Cost: 2 prosecco & 3 cicheti 17 Euro)
Al Merca
On the fringes of Rialto’s fruit ‘n’ veg market this is nothing more than a hole in the wall, but it was again rammed with folk on their Saturday afternoon bacari crawl. More sandwiches than cicheti but still worth a visit as it forms a triangle with the first two on our list. San Polo 213, Campo Bella Vienna (Cost: two glasses Sauvignon 7)
Red Caffe
A tiny caffe on Campo San Margherita which buzzes with serious-looking hipster types all drinking a spritz (just 2.50), It wasn’t the friendliest place out of the six, but no matter; a great terrace to people-watch from too. Well worth a visit. And it was the inspiration for Polpo. Dorsoduro 2963
Cantinone Gia Schiavi
It’s a wine shop, really, but the cicheti cost just one euro each and it’s right on a picturesque section of the canal. We ate tuna and anchovy with pickled onion, and mozzarella with asparagus. Dorsoduro 992, Ponte San Trovaso
Bar Paninoteca
Tucked away behind the waterfront in Giudecca is an authentic bacaro, its interior 70s chalet cabin-style with jackpot machines, cheesy euro pop and wines at a single euro (our Bardolino was 1.50). Throughout the friendly owner sat crocheting a jumper in the corner. Pizzettes were .30 and unctuous arancini balls with melting mozzarella just 1.30. Campo Marte 54 Giudecca
One must-visit restaurant
Osteria alla Bifora
This seductive osteria on Campo San Margherita is highly recommended. Its interior is brick and wood, candles flickering, with Murano chandeliers and handwritten menus. The waitress speaks only in Italian, and several dogs roamed around – one, it should be pointed out, in a diamante collar – or lay sprawled on the chequered floor. Can seem confusing at first (do you order a the bar or take a seat?) and sooo busy on a rainy Sunday evening that we wondered if it was worth fighting for. Yet it was probably our best experience of the weekend: the buzz of animated Venetians, the rhythmic slicing of charcuterie, cicheti sharing plates – prawn with swordfish, marinated sardines, anchovy, creamed salt cod with different flavours, beef carpaccio. 80 euros for dinner and wine. Campo S Margherita 2930
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