Free Weekend? Explore Crystal Palace

The weekend overground service from Kentish Town via Blackfriars’ impressive river-straddling new station and down to south London is a saviour, especially when negotiating the public transport system with a tube-phobic Jack Russell. It’s a joy that Brixton Village is less than 20 mins away; and seemingly far-flung Crystal Palace only quarter of an hour further.

Last time we visited was a few years ago as part of our 78 mile Capital Ring hike. We were halfway round the week-long loop, the rain was incessant, and a mist enshrouded the famous dinosaurs in a way that was almost tropical.

So the other weekend it was more than time for a revisit, and an invitation from our friends James and David, who had also just bought a Boston Terrier puppy, was more than reason enough.

Dinosaurs aside, what I had forgotten about Crystal Palace is its spectacular location: the triangle of streets on a hilltop, each offering enticing views over the capital. North London doesn’t, lest we need to remind ourselves, have a hegemony on city views.

Leaving the train we were struck by what a big deal the 1851 Great Exhibition was; even the station is grand.

The Crystal Palace was a cast-iron and glass building originally erected in Hyde Park. Following its popularity, the palace was reconstructed in 1854 in what was then Sydenham Hill, one of the highest locations in London – 109 metres – above sea level. That’s a whopping 40 metres higher than Primrose Hill, and 20 metres higher than Parliament Hill. Sorry Kentishtowners! (However, whilst we are digressing, it’s worth pointing out that Hampstead Heath rises to a mighty 134 metres in its north End).

Anyway, sculptor Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins erected the first lifesize models of the (then) newly-discovered dinosaurs in the park. A delicious urban myth is that dinner was held inside the Iguanodon; in fact it was held inside the mold that was used to make the sculpture. Nonetheless, the dinner party, hosted by Owen on 31 December 1853, garnered due press attention.

Fast forward nearly a century and the palace was destroyed by fire on 30 November 1936, leaving the site of the building and its grounds known simply as Crystal Palace Park. Whilst you wander, it’s also worth a peek at the modernist National Sports Centre, built in 1964, and TV transmitter tower (one of two), which is 219 metres high, and something of a landmark across south London.

Leaving the park at the top corner, the tip of the Crystal Palace Triangle (as the area formed by Westow Street, Westow Hill and Church Road, is known) we met our friends and hit the vintage and antiques emporiums, yapping dogs in tow.

You could try places like Do South or Haynes Lane Market, but we headed for Church Road first, where there’s a row of vintage and antique shops (with names like Belle Coco) and very stylish cafe, Bambino, whose barista persuaded me to try a black Ethiopian wote bean that was more akin to a tea but refreshingly mellow.

There are dozens of decent places to eat in the ‘Triangle’ (such as The Alma, 95 Church Road) but David’s choice was the Sarrowhawk (2 Westow Hill), a recently reinvented boozer with spacious interior, efficient service and dependable food (oh, and a nice bottle of Cote De Provence; we were still clinging onto summer). Also recommended is the pan-fried haddock with broccoli and beurre blanc.

The rain was pelting down by this point, and a meander was not an option. After making a run for it from pongy candle shop Milk & Honey, we raced for cover in Crystal Palace Antiques (Jasper Road, right), a characterful four floor history lesson in interiors from Victoriana to late 20th Century.

And finally? A quick scoot to the very busy Westow pub (see below) where, ale in hand, we watched the dark skies, as the rain continued – before a sprint back to that elegant station.

Top 3 Tips by local David O’Brien, fashion stylist
1. Neo India, 78 Westow Hill. Amazing Mauritian food. Try the delicious crab soup and hot hot hot curries.
2. Secret Garden Centre, 70 Westow Street. Hidden by Sainsbury’s is an oasis of greenery, flowers and bees.
3. The Westow, 79 Westow Hill. Sprawling and eclectic interior with ace fish and chips and artisan beers.

Words & Photos: Stephen Emms

Care to share a Crystal Palace tip below?