Review: Dirty Burger Soho Pop-Up

Dirty Burger is London’s worst-kept secret, of course. The Soho House pop-up has roamed Hackney and Soho all summer (last seen behind Richmond Mews W1), and is now about to wing its way to a corrugated iron shack behind Kentish Town’s much-anticipated new opening.

The format is the usual streetfood thing: you queue up at the hatch (boy will there be a queue), and order either a burger or a ‘dirty breakfast’ (sausage, haggis and egg).

Any cop? Absolutely. It could be argued that the folk behind this simply couldn’t fail – they must have some of the best suppliers and chefs in the business, after all. The meat, for example, uses ‘three carefully selected cuts of meat and bone marrow.’

When we tried a cheeseburger at the Soho pop-up we were pleased it was a big, tender, drippingly sloppy affair begging to be gobbled out of the signature wrapper.

Other observations? Nice sheen on the bun. Crisp, more-ish onion rings. And cute crinkle cut chips, just a tad under seasoned for our salty old seadog palates (no point cutting out the sodium really is there chaps?)

Our only quibble, if we may be so very bold, was that our patty was a teensy bit well done instead of jackpot-medium-rare in the middle – but we forgot to specify our preference. That aside, this is a shack that will, we think, do a mighty trade.

Words & Pics: Stephen Emms