Some of you may have had a relationship with Quo Vadis, on Greek Street, over the years. Mrs Kentishtowner, in jocular mode, compares it to a handsome hunk she banged in her twenties, dumped in her early thirties, and is now enamoured with once more (and therein lies the story of a marriage).
Anyway, what the above rather cumbersome metaphor is trying to hint at is that we all change. For better or worse. And restaurants, it seems, are like people: they too can mutate, collapse, or go bankrupt.
Yet Quo Vadis survives, against the odds. And this latest incarnation (under the auspices of our favourite restaurateurs, Sam & Eddie ‘Barrafina’ Hart) is so good we are saying this: go there with an intimate, spend just £6.50 each at the bar (much less stuffy than the dining room), and bingo! It’ll be the best £13 you ever lost in Soho, we promise.
Regard the hint of sardine concealed by fried egg, above: perfection itself, smothered in the yolkiest yolk we’ve had since Spuntino.
Even more impressive was the smoked eel and horseradish sandwich, a thing of such fishy, fiery beauty that we nearly returned, a few Negronis later, for another.
And as if he isn’t talented enough in the kitchen (pipe down now, Mrs Kentishtowner!) head chef Jeremy Lee is also an amusing Twitter follow too. Although, if we are to nitpick un petit peu, his syntax can leave a little to be desired.
Two bar snacks £13. Wine around £6 a glass. Quo Vadis, Greek Street W1.
Words & Pictures: Stephen Emms