North London Food & Culture

Is weekend breakfast at Pizza East much cop?

The ultimate lazy local morning option. Even if service was a bit touch and go...

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‘It’s nice to see your eight-year-old wolfing down avocado, poached eggs and chunks of wholemeal toast.’ Photo: PE
The best thing about having four – count ’em – Soho House restaurants clustered on Highgate Road is that it’s possible to enjoy destination-level scran but with the low-hassle levels of tumbling into a local caff.

With super-lively kids in tow of a weekend morning, the neighbourhood’s little luxury becomes a genuine, family-sized revelation. Which is why Pizza East can have a touch of the school canteen about it first thing, (albeit an unorthodox one featuring cured meats hanging above its well-stocked bar).

But the crayon-toting battalion are no bad thing, making for an instantly lively atmosphere to help blow away the early morning cobwebs alongside an espresso or two, or perhaps even a breakfast martini for those shouldering less domestic responsibility.

On our most recent family visit, the kids knew exactly what they wanted. Thick pancakes, smothered in blueberries with vanilla-flecked ricotta, (a just-about-healthy take on the American diner classic), light and not overly sweet. A clean-plate hit.


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It’s nice to see your eight-year-old wolfing down avocado, poached eggs and chunks of wholemeal toast too, although an unexplained delay with our order meant young tempers started to fray before a swift flurry of attention from the staff when the mistake had been noted.

A view many locals know well: Pizza East. Photo: PR
A view many locals know well: Pizza East. Photo: PR
My own baked eggs with chorizo and kale also failed to show. Again, this was quickly rectified when mentioned, but a rare state of confusion seemed to reign for this normally slick kitchen, and it wasn’t yet the 10am brunchtime rush.

When the dish did arrive it was a hearty, rich way to kick-start the action-packed weekend ahead, the saltiness of the meat and robust tomato base softened by golden yolk and earthy brassica.

Most savvy NW5 residents must surely have signed up for the fabled half-price PE Lovers key ring, which is valid until 11am on both Saturdays and Sundays, meaning the whole thing, including assorted juice and coffees, clocked in at little more than £20 for three (rather than around £40).

For an engaging hour of family togetherness, and despite the uncustomary service hiccups this time, a Pizza East weekend brekkie is a fairly unbeatable proposition. Something that’s popular with all members of the family is a rare and beautiful thing, particularly one that’s so convenient.

Egg dishes from £4-£10. Sides £2. 79 Highgate Rd, London NW5 1TL

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