North London Food & Culture

Review: Bap & Pickle at Smugglers Tavern, Warren Street

The owners of Camden backstreet pub the Colonel Fawcett have just taken over this little place south of Euston Road

Superior "streetfood": Bap & Pickle at Smugglers Tavern
Superior “streetfood”: the mackerel tempura bap at Smugglers Tavern

The other day we heard that the boys from one of our favourite food pubs, the Colonel Fawcett, had only gone and snapped up another watering hole. I know! Lucky them.

The shiny new acquisition is on Warren Street, a short hop from the river of traffic along the Euston Road, which neatly divides W1 from NW1.

This part of Fitzrovia seems enigmatically underrated. It’s somehow escaped the madness of other parts of the West End, while not quite finding its feet as a “neighbourhood” district like nearby Camden Town, Marylebone, Bloomsbury or even King’s Cross. After all, many pubs and cafes are closed at the weekend.

Yet, as Soho and central Fitzrovia become ever more oversubscribed, NoNoho – if you like – is becoming an epicentre of new openings, such as Middle Eastern diner Honey & Co, esoteric wine bar The Remedy and stylish bean merchants Tapped & Packed.


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Simple and bright: the interior
Simple and bright: the interior
And so to the Smugglers Tavern, an 18th century sliver of a boozer which the Fawcett owners toyed with renaming, before retaining its historical moniker. It does, after all, sound quite romantic, conjuring up a rowdy boozer in the old towns of, say, Hastings or Deal in Kent.

Aesthetically, it’s still early days: the interior has benefited from a lick of duck egg blue paint, brightening it up a bit – more bar, less boozer, the perfect space for the wine-guzzling after-work brigade.

“Basically we’re still waiting on planning and designs,” explains co-owner Ross. “So it’s all pretty low-key. And we’ve got a pop-up kitchen, the Bap & Pickle, doing a relatively small menu in the meantime.”

Ah yes, the food. Sounds humble enough, right? Meat and fish sandwiches, salads and a few sides. But, with head chef Rupert Davis, who helped set up the Fawcett’s kitchen alongside golden boy Dorian Kirk, punters can rest assured that it’s no afterthought. Because, like the excellent Phileas Hogg at the Abbey Tavern, this is “streetfood” elevated to art form.

Note the impressive effigy: Smugglers Tavern
Note the impressive effigy: Smugglers Tavern
Need proof? Try the tempura mackerel bap with celeriac remoulade and dill (pictured, above): it’s all light crispy batter, smooth, earthy fish, the mild kick of mustard and tang of pickled beetroot. And the home-made bun is light, yet holds the filling without collapsing. Tasty but less dazzling is a fragrant slow-roast spiced lamb option with peppers, sweet shallots and garlic. Braised beef and pulled pork are on the menu too.

Under these continually leaden skies, don’t miss the salads either: the al dente crunch of broccoli and mange-tout is fired up by ginger and chilli, contrasting the richness of the mains, as well as our side of creamy mac ‘n’ cheese croquettes. Fries fall into superior Honest Burger territory, all rosemary-infused crispiness, and made to dunk in the home-made aioli and ketchup.

As with every new opening in central London, the cocktail list is inevitably on-trend; our negroni is well-balanced and a good price (£8) for W1. There are a handful of real ales and lagers; and house wines start at about £15 a bottle, not bad either for this part of town.

Within half an hour of sitting at our table, the tiny room fills, with dozens of revellers spilling onto the pavement. “The street’s soon to be pedestrianised too,” says Ross, with what can only be described as a piratical grin.

Bap & Pickle at the Smugglers Tavern, 28 Warren Street W1. Kentishtowner Rating 8/10. Baps from £7, fries £2.50. Meal for two with bottle of house wine (£15.50) around £40.

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