If you wish to escape the city hubbub while you dine, taking a little trip to Primrose Hill is usually a safe bet.
Despite being just a couple of minutes along the towpath/across the tracks from the thronging streetfood fiesta that is Camden’s Kerb Market, the Hill’s genteel terrace tables and hushed dining rooms place it firmly at the opposite end of the argy-bargy eating scale.
Thankfully though, the neighbourhood’s pervading vibe of moneyed stiffness doesn’t rule out finding a meal with genuine flare and personality.
We sat down in La Collina towards the end of an autumnal Friday lunch service, when the rustle of starched tablecloths was about the only perceptible sound, despite a couple of occupied tables reaching the end of their meals nearby.
This is an Italian that boldly aims to straddle both the modern and the traditional: the environment is absolute old school, just as you’d expect – and perhaps be actively seeking – in these grand terraced streets, but the food could easily hold its own in amongst the daring offerings from those cool-as-you-like stalls not far from here, too.
A starter of finely breadcrumbed gratin scallops, with a touch of sundried tomato and garlic relish, came served on huge blackened shells. Bold and fun, while equally refined and delicate, it was an instant hit at our somewhat more voluble table.
Similarly, a starter portion of home-made pappardelle, with its dense concentration of earthy mushrooms and an intense seasonal truffle tang, had real bite.
Toasting our clever navigation of the menu so far, we progressed swiftly through a carafe of the delightful Soresere Sauvignon from producer Forchir, while restaurant owner Partick stopped for a moment to tell us a bit about the Friuli region where the wine originates – Italy’s outermost reaches by the border with Slovenia.
As you might expect, his obvious pride in explaining the provenance of his menu is among the joys of dining at this small yet determinedly quality-focused place.
So far, so good, anyway. Therefore it was always going to be a tall order for the sea bass main to attempt to rival its predecessors, and despite its thoroughly moreish Venetian Acqua Pazza-style herby tomato broth and very decent flanks of fish, it didn’t quite hit the same heights.
Patrick’s partner and chef Diana can surely relied upon to serve up a real show-stopping plate of pasta. The other main, her umami-rich ball of dark squid ink tagliolini, muddled with prawns, courgettes and bottarga, was by turns deeply fishy, juicy and zesty.
By now, with the dining room all to ourselves and the weekend fast approaching, it was difficult to contemplate having to leave this food-filled oasis. So we plumped for pudding, a not too sweet apple cake with almond ice cream, and a slice of the now de rigueur gluten-free option, here a chocolate tarte (although it would have be improved by a bit more, well, gluten).
Re-joining the faster pace of life outside P-Hill’s yawning pastel stuccoed avenues, it feels a lot like we’d totally – if briefly – escaped it all; a micro-holiday squeezed into in a languid lunch hour.
Go in the evening and there’s a chance to linger in the glow of the area’s retro gas lamps, the handsome profile of which La Collina have borrowed for their logo. The restaurant is very much part of the comfy furniture here, yet the food is anything but.
[note note_color=”#c7e5fa” text_color=”#807f7f” radius=”4″]Kentishtowner Members special offer: Enjoy 10% off your total bill Mon-Thurs at La Collina with a Portico Places card.
To get your free Portico Places card, email places@portico.com with the number of cards needed and your postal address. Portico Places is run by Portico Camden Estate Agents.[/note]