North London Food & Culture

Been to Gin Club yet?

Always fancied making your own gin without leaving Kentish Town? Now you can

Gin Club:
Gin Club: ‘On our wintry night the batch was heavy on the coriander, rich on earthy notes and accented with a hit of orange peel.’ Photo: L&G
London is awash with secret drinking dens and craft booze makers, but we’ll stick our neck out and say that Kentish Town can boast two of the very best. Down in our repurposed subterranean Victorian bogs, local face William Borrell has transformed his day job, running his family’s vintage batch Vestal Vodka brand, to encompass acclaimed cocktail bar Ladies & Gentlemen.

And quietly dripping away in the corner, Vestal itself is being transformed too. Tipped into a copper still each day, it is infused with handfuls of seasonal botanicals, (some of which are foraged on Hampstead Heath), to become Highwayman Gin, NW5’s very own small batch spirit.

On regular Tuesday nights, fans of the good stuff crowd around a table at L&G to giggle, gasp and of course guzzle, as William bust myths about so-called ‘craft’ gins while uncovering the strange history of the drink. The biggest revelations are that gin is flavoured vodka, and also that the in-house version tastes so superior, so syrupy (almost like a grappa, according to my companion with the most extensive of hard-earned bar knowledge) as to warrant much excitement from all assembled. Enthusiastic groups of friends looking for an unusual night out lap up Will’s polished repartee, before getting hands on, mashing up juniper and measuring out beakers of Vestal.

Stylish: the bar at Ladies & Gents. Photo: L&G
Stylish: the bar at Ladies & Gents. Photo: L&G
Once blended, we seal the top of the copper still in the traditional style: with a wad of fresh dough. Even that is locally produced, as Will picks it up from Rosella Pizzeria over the road. Then we’re cooking.


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Pure spirit emerges after only a few minutes to be cooled by iced water. And when tested with a cocktail chemistry kit, the alcoholometer bobs about to inform us our liquor is currently 84% pure alcohol. Before bottling for us to take home, the bar staff reduce things to a more manageable 40% by simply adding water.

The result? On our wintry night the batch was heavy on the coriander, rich on earthy notes and accented with a hit of orange peel. Not only have we just made our very own gin, but it tastes far better than the bland commercially produced bottles. This atmospheric basement distillery makes it all seem easy.

Follow @ladyandgentsbar on Twitter for details of the next Gin Club. Find Ladies & Gents at 2 Highgate Road, NW5.

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