I think it’s fair to say that not much really changes in South End Green, aka the bus terminus at the dusty foot of the Heath.
That’s not to say it isn’t crazy-busy: one of London’s leading hospitals, the Royal Free, pretty much sees to that. But the selection of mid-market cafes – Euphorium, Hampstead Tea Rooms, Le Pain Quotidian – is rather uninspiring.
Imposing corner pub the White Horse has tried – and failed – to do its own take on “small plates”, the Magdala is closed for a refurb, and the Garden Gate settles for unpretentious pub grub (albeit in a lovely setting). Meanwhile, Fratelli La Bufala – now rebranded but under the same ownership – dishes up reliable but pricey pizzas; other safe eating options include longstanding Turkish joint Zara, Indian restaurant Paradise, and the newish Little Thai on Fleet Road.
Enter Silverberry, definitely with its mind set on “shaking things up” in this leafy corner of NW3. The decor is tasteful in a modern but uncharacterful way – neutral colours, sharing tables, bare bulbs and mosaic tiling – and the simple idea is to serve healthy produce.
The real draw, however? The good-sized outdoor terrace. In fact, no other cafe in the immediate vicinity has such a spacious pavement to lounge and watch the hustle and bustle.
Interesting brunch options have really taken over the capital in recent years. And here’s no exception: the menu is heavy on breakfasty items with names to add a layer of – what? – humour? “Sea Sound”, for example, is smoked salmon, scrambled eggs and sourdough. “Eggvocado” is…well, you guessed it.
It was lunchtime, anyway, so our minds were firmly fixed on mains, all bearing more sensible monikers. With a cautious five year old in tow, we chose a selection of dishes we could all share. Salmon baked in tangy, lemony sumac (pictured above) was exactly as it should be, livened up by a lick of aioli, roasted new potatoes and some quite outsize (but perfectly cooked) florets of broccoli.
A substanial trio of Ottolengi-style salads – decent value at £8.50 – exuded a contrast of textures and flavours: melt-in-the-mouth roasted squash and chickpea, slow-roasted beetroot with fennel, radishes and dates; and best of all, honey-glazed carrots with cumin, feta and freekah, the hip Middle Eastern grain.
Most memorable was a humble chicken thigh burger: the meat juicy and chargrilled, it was sandwiched with robust slivers of smoked peppers in a sturdy brioche bun. It would have been nigh flawless, but the accompanying chips were thick-cut – and declared unexciting by the demanding youngest member of the party.
Finishing with a strong own-brand Silverberry Blue Mountain espresso – does everyone have their own beans now? – we agreed the deli is a pleasant enough option if you’ve just attempted the mild slopes of Parliament Hill.
More exciting are plans for an evening service, and as the place is fully licensed, the idea of a sundowner on the terrace is tempting as the weather heats up.
[row][column size=”1/2″]• Silverberry is not canine-friendly inside, a shame, as most dog owners would agree there’s a gap in the market for such a cafe next to the Heath
• The shop section sells coffee, jars of sauces, posh chocolate and the ilk
[/column]
[column size=”1/2″]• Service is friendly enough. They are understandably trying to win over locals, although table service would be nice, too.
• We didn’t try the pastries or cakes, but many are gluten-free: try orange, almond and polenta, or a moist banana, for example. [/column]
[/row]
[review]
We paid £35.40 for three mains, a portion of sourdough (£2) and three soft drinks (£1.50-£2)
All reviews are paid for. More on this policy here
