Starting life as a roaming van, founder Bel Shapiro had a dream to perfect one classic dish as best she can. That means curing brisket in brine – allowing the salt to break down the tough meat – while letting its flavours shine through.
As of late 2013, Bel set up a kitchen residency in reinvented Highgate pub the Duke’s Head, where we ate several times. And now, for one month only from today, she’s bagged herself a pop-up at Prince of Wales Road’s uber-pub (meanwhile, vacating chef Texas Joe can be found at the Horatia pub over on Holloway Road).
Photo: Bell & Brisket
But our preferred indulgence? Why, the “Baron Beethoven” (main pic), which chucks in some vinegar-pickled beets and horseradish: dished up in a sturdier black rye bun, the flesh surrenders immediately, melting deliciously in the mouth. Don’t forget a side of “naked” fries (£2.50) too.
6 thoughts on “Bell & Brisket: the new kitchen at the Grafton”
Thank god ! Texas Joe was so horrendous I actually avoided the Grafton at meal times to avoid being faced with the odors, never mind the food itself ! Whatever happened to the amazing Fat Butcher that was in there before ?
Spot on. I’d given up on the Grafton but will give it another shot.
Felicia, I’m so glad to hear it wasn’t just me! So pleased to hear Texas joe has moved on!
Did those who run the Grafton not notice that we were all staying away at lunch time? Hope the Bell and Brisket is an improvement…..but why not someone who stays on for a bit and enchants us with the food? Not too difficult to manage nowadays…..
£8 for a bagel is absurd
Bell and Brisket is delicious – thank god the local boozer’s sorted again!