Kount von Kraut at Duke's Head. Photo: Stephanie Wolff/Bell & Brisket

Kount von Kraut at Duke’s Head. Photo: Stephanie Wolff/Bell & Brisket

Starting life as a roaming van, founder Bel Shapiro had a dream to perfect one classic dish as best she can. That means curing brisket in brine – allowing the salt to break down the tough meat – while letting its flavours shine through.

As of late 2013, Bel set up a kitchen residency in reinvented Highgate pub the Duke’s Head, where we ate several times. And now, for one month only from today, she’s bagged herself a pop-up at Prince of Wales Road’s uber-pub (meanwhile, vacating chef Texas Joe can be found at the Horatia pub over on Holloway Road).

Founder Bel poses in front of her van. Photo: Bell & Brisket

Founder Bel poses in front of her van.
Photo: Bell & Brisket

New menu items include “fish in a box” (whole smoked mackerel with horseradish, £10), or “beef in a box” for all you carnivores out there. Also present will be a favourite of ours, the “Kount von Kraut” (£7.50), succulent hand-brined salt beef, served with melted cheddar, dill and garlic kraut on a Brick Lane bagel, with satisfyingly crunchy tangy pickles.

But our preferred indulgence? Why, the “Baron Beethoven” (main pic), which chucks in some vinegar-pickled beets and horseradish: dished up in a sturdier black rye bun, the flesh surrenders immediately, melting deliciously in the mouth. Don’t forget a side of “naked” fries (£2.50) too.

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The Bell & Brisket launches today and runs until Feb 15 at the Grafton, 20 Prince Of Wales Road NW5.
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