As of late 2013, Bel set up a kitchen residency in reinvented Highgate pub the Duke’s Head, where we ate several times. And now, for one month only from today, she’s bagged herself a pop-up at Prince of Wales Road’s uber-pub (meanwhile, vacating chef Texas Joe can be found at the Horatia pub over on Holloway Road).New menu items include “fish in a box” (whole smoked mackerel with horseradish, £10), or “beef in a box” for all you carnivores out there. Also present will be a favourite of ours, the “Kount von Kraut” (£7.50), succulent hand-brined salt beef, served with melted cheddar, dill and garlic kraut on a Brick Lane bagel, with satisfyingly crunchy tangy pickles.
But our preferred indulgence? Why, the “Baron Beethoven” (main pic), which chucks in some vinegar-pickled beets and horseradish: dished up in a sturdier black rye bun, the flesh surrenders immediately, melting deliciously in the mouth. Don’t forget a side of “naked” fries (£2.50) too.