North London Food & Culture

Review: Miss Bun, Kentish Town Road

Try this one-woman operation which, says Toby Brothers, demonstrates the sheer magic of quality Chinese cooking

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Nothing disappoints. But be prepared to wait

While Kentish Town may not need any more food destinations, maybe we did need a delicious Chinese cafe that offers cheap homemade buns and dumplings. Well, now we are set. (And, incidentally, whatever happened to the previous occupants, the short-lived La Bonn Patisserie?)

Anyway, Miss Bun has been in business just two weeks and she is cooking up a storm; it’s certainly caught the attention of the tweeters. A one-woman operation, her menu is one small page but nothing disappoints. The buns are fluffy and full of flavour (vegetarian, pork, or chicken) and are obviously freshly prepared.

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A parade now boasting excellent world food: Miss Bun

The dumplings are filled with savoury, carefully cooked melt-in-your mouth interiors that will make us reject the frozen variety so often offered. My daughter— who is particular to the point of madness — says the buns are the best. A variety of  choices are available ranging from 80p to £5.

Miss Bun (real name: Ping Liu) comes from Zheng Zhou, the capital of Henan Province. She previously worked at Ikura in Belsize Park and Quan Zhang Ju in Chinatown, but now is running her own business. Her love of food and culture informs her cooking and the convivial ambience of her shop; she holds degrees in literature and a Masters in Material Culture with an emphasis on food. She describes her menu as influenced by the Cantonese region with its focus on dumplings and noodles.


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We splurged (£15) and chose the hot pot for our second visit along with our dumplings and buns — the menu states for two but several more would have been satisfied. Miss Bun asked if we wanted it spicy — we bravely said absolutely and my sinuses are cleared through New Year’s.

The pot (she loaned us her actual cooking pot to take it home in — it’s that kind of place) offered simmering shrimp, rice noodles, fish balls (I know, don’t say it) lamb, ham, rice cake, tofu mushroom, kelp, Chinese leaf…utterly satisfying for a damp winter’s night. A dish for one who likes their flavours strong and wild.

Miss Bun poses in her tiny  streetfood kitchen
Miss Bun poses in her tiny streetfood kitchen

Something magical happens in quality Chinese cooking: the final product is much more than the sum of the parts – and though I watched her put all the ingredients together, I am convinced some extra magic was involved in the mix. Sometimes delicious mystery is enough.

And cheap. Ridiculously cheap. So cheap I feel like I should give her more money.

Downsides? Miss Bun is a bit optimistic with time — 20 minutes to prepare is really more like 35—but free tea and a lovely chat in what is essentially someone’s kitchen makes that seem beside the point. Also she does not quite have the sauce technology down — she has sauce, but no containers to take it out in.

But these criticisms seem petty: the food is satisfying, she is putting her heart into her cooking and it is one of the best deals in the neighbourhood.

Kentishtowner Rating 8/10. Meal for two £10-15. 322 Kentish Town Road, 07473 511 055, eat-in (small counter) or take away, Open noon until late

17 thoughts on “Review: Miss Bun, Kentish Town Road”

  1. “Streetfood” kitchen… we’re destroying the meaning of that word. How will be be able to talk about streetfood? Like literally my head will explode.

    But a nice looking place – will check it out.

  2. I was so happy to find a little place that does dumplings as it being one of my favourite food. I had won ton soup, the portion was large as you get 8 or 9 dumplings. The only disappointment was it was rather bland. I will return again & try another dish otherwise it was ok.

  3. Visited this place last night and thought it was great!

    Fantastic to grab a quick dinner – only 15 mins wait, good portions of tasty food, and super cheap. Adds a bit of variety to Kentish Town’s fast food options. Will definitely be returning.

  4. If looking for authentic cuisine it does not get better than this. True value in a relaxed environment with a personal touch.

    I was very impressed with every aspect and sure to visit time and time again as every occasion has been great.

      1. I have since returned to Miss Bunn and had a completely different experience
        The Chef was both amusing and most accommodating.

        On my previous visit I was in a rush and had a few beers! Never a good combination .

        I tried the Noodles this time and I have to say it was both a good portion and excellent value for money!

        Definitely the best value Chinese food I have tasted.

  5. For those of you who like her food, I take off my hat. Frozen prawn pack from Iceland and sumptuous MSG. Where is the quality? The dim sum came out of frozen pack which you can buy from any Asian supermarket, only that they were the cheap version. Where is the great price? I understand shops in Kentish Town must be expensive to lease but Ms Bun’s profit margin has got to be 800% at least, which would have been fine if her fried noodle is not border-line inedible. It’s only “homemade” because she is cooking from a small kitchen. That’s the Chinese socialist style for you: invest least effort for maximum return. Hooray to Kentish Towner’s middle class Guardian reader who is willing to pay £6.50 for a plate of “food” which is everything but Chinese.

  6. Nicely thought out menu, bit cramped, perhaps Miss Bun aka Ping Liu could do with a bit of courtesy when referring a customer to the menu. Yes a bit cramped also refers to the menu.

  7. Erratic opening times. Cramped conditions. Maddeningly slow service and very, very average food. What’s not to like? The simple menu selection still is a total pain to understand. The chef / proprietor prepares her food as if she’s doing it for the very first time. She’s also very disorganised, which only adds to the amusement / experience. Last time our party of four went for a working lunch, the food took nearly 30 minutes to turn up. However, we all got a discount and my friend Mercedes did get a free Aloe Vera drink and a copy of Stylist magazine. So swings and roundabouts….

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17 thoughts on “Review: Miss Bun, Kentish Town Road”

  1. “Streetfood” kitchen… we’re destroying the meaning of that word. How will be be able to talk about streetfood? Like literally my head will explode.

    But a nice looking place – will check it out.

  2. I was so happy to find a little place that does dumplings as it being one of my favourite food. I had won ton soup, the portion was large as you get 8 or 9 dumplings. The only disappointment was it was rather bland. I will return again & try another dish otherwise it was ok.

  3. Visited this place last night and thought it was great!

    Fantastic to grab a quick dinner – only 15 mins wait, good portions of tasty food, and super cheap. Adds a bit of variety to Kentish Town’s fast food options. Will definitely be returning.

  4. If looking for authentic cuisine it does not get better than this. True value in a relaxed environment with a personal touch.

    I was very impressed with every aspect and sure to visit time and time again as every occasion has been great.

      1. I have since returned to Miss Bunn and had a completely different experience
        The Chef was both amusing and most accommodating.

        On my previous visit I was in a rush and had a few beers! Never a good combination .

        I tried the Noodles this time and I have to say it was both a good portion and excellent value for money!

        Definitely the best value Chinese food I have tasted.

  5. For those of you who like her food, I take off my hat. Frozen prawn pack from Iceland and sumptuous MSG. Where is the quality? The dim sum came out of frozen pack which you can buy from any Asian supermarket, only that they were the cheap version. Where is the great price? I understand shops in Kentish Town must be expensive to lease but Ms Bun’s profit margin has got to be 800% at least, which would have been fine if her fried noodle is not border-line inedible. It’s only “homemade” because she is cooking from a small kitchen. That’s the Chinese socialist style for you: invest least effort for maximum return. Hooray to Kentish Towner’s middle class Guardian reader who is willing to pay £6.50 for a plate of “food” which is everything but Chinese.

  6. Nicely thought out menu, bit cramped, perhaps Miss Bun aka Ping Liu could do with a bit of courtesy when referring a customer to the menu. Yes a bit cramped also refers to the menu.

  7. Erratic opening times. Cramped conditions. Maddeningly slow service and very, very average food. What’s not to like? The simple menu selection still is a total pain to understand. The chef / proprietor prepares her food as if she’s doing it for the very first time. She’s also very disorganised, which only adds to the amusement / experience. Last time our party of four went for a working lunch, the food took nearly 30 minutes to turn up. However, we all got a discount and my friend Mercedes did get a free Aloe Vera drink and a copy of Stylist magazine. So swings and roundabouts….

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