Is this the best chicken in north London?

A year ago we reviewed La Patagonia, the rustic Argentinian restaurant towards Mornington Crescent. We enjoyed its buzzy atmosphere, characterful interior and very hearty steaks – and have returned since on more than one occasion.

However we hadn’t tried their grilled chicken until a casual drop-in last Saturday lunchtime, after visiting the new Orpheus Twice show at the DRAF gallery.

All we can squawk is O.M.G. The dish itself is humbly billed as “half a free range boneless chicken served with a tomato and chilli sauce on the side”.

But that doesn’t come near it. Marinated in whisky, garlic, lemon and rosemary – a recipe of the chef Adrian Cocco’s mother’s, apparently – the breast (from Tom Hixson at Smithfield) is seared over the parrilla (charcoal grill).

The result? Tender, robust and juicy inside, its scorched crispy skin is perfectly seasoned and bristles with flavour. Meanwhile, an accompanying dip adds a slippery hit of tangy heat, should you need it.

The damage? £11 a pop. Gobble some moreish parsley and garlic fries and it’s an extra £3.50. Not necessarily the cheapest chicken ‘n’ chips option, then, but well worth a splurge.

So: are we clucking mad or is there anywhere else round here that does this better?