Free Weekend? Explore the coastline, winding streets and vintage shops of Deal, Kent

“No-one passes through,” declares the fisherman propping up the bar, before adding, “people only come to Deal for a purpose.”

He’s right. Deal’s liberal atmosphere and unique culture have thrived from being precisely the place that no-one happens upon, situated as it is between Dover and Ramsgate.

Historically, however, it was the preferred landing spot for every potential foreign invader from Julius Caesar, who arrived in 55BC (check out the memorial on the promenade towards Walmer) to Napoleon (no, he didn’t quite make it). And it’s this combination of inaccessibility and vulnerability that has allowed Deal to live by its own rules.

Its significance in the sixteenth century as the busiest port in England resulted in the building of three castles including Walmer, the most spectacular, but by the 18th Century, a thriving smuggling trade meant the town had gained a lawless reputation: diarist Samuel Pepys called Deal “pitiful”, whilst the author Daniel Defoe talked of its “barbarous hated name”.

So why is it now bustling with delis, restaurants and antique shops? The clue lies in the famous Georgian conservation area of fisherman’s cottages just behind the seafront. In the sixties, the council nearly demolished a sizeable portion, but gradually the crumbling dwellings were bought up (often by “theatrical London types”, according to local estate agents Bright & Bright) and refurbished – to the point where a stroll around this now highly picturesque quarter is the most enjoyable way to spend an hour upon arrival.

And the many blue plaques are testament to the town’s bohemian history – an author here, a painter there – especially that belonging to Carry On actor Charles Hawtrey (who had a penchant for sailors, booze and setting fire to his bed, often all at the same time).

The piazza on the seafront was also regenerated a few years back, facilitating alfresco drinking and dining. There are always live bands and shows on bank holidays here – it’s where the town comes together, in fact. But if you like your entertainment a little more arty try the newish Astor Theatre for world and classic cinema, gigs and surreal seaside variety shows a plenty.

Top 3 Tips

The Old Town. Wander round the rarefied streets of the conservation area (centred around Middle Street), then head to the high street for an intriguing selection of vintage shops including stylish retro store Mileage, with its accompanying tea room, delis (don’t miss the charming Allotment (see review below) at 119, and excellent French cheeses at No Name (110 High St), and bustling Saturday market.

Coast and Castles. Deal seeps history: the delightful Maritime Museum (23 St George’s Road, 01304 381 344) is a good starting point, then work off a fish and chip lunch (at 78 Middle Street) with a brisk seafront hike which takes in the four storey Timeball Tower, rose-shaped Deal Castle and idyllic Walmer Castle for a cream tea on the battlements.

Zetland Arms & St Margaret’s Bay. A wonderful cove, where Noel Coward owned a house on the beach, makes a glorious walk from Deal across the shingle beaches and white chalk cliffs (7 miles one way). Grab a pint at the newly refurbished Zetland Arms, perched on the beach (right) in the village of Kingsdown en route, and eat at The Coastguard, the ‘closest pub to France’.

Eating & Drinking Guide

Borough Wines, High Street, quirky shop-cum-bar with very friendly arty crowd and well priced wines by the glass.
The Black Douglas, 83 Beach St, Perfect home-made breakfasts, cakes, coffee and light lunches with cosy garden at the rear. Best on Friday nights for pizzas and wine.
The Ship, Middle Street, gorgeous panelled smugglers’ boozer with rowdy crowd in the heart of the old town.
Royal Hotel on the beach for sharing fish platters and ice-cold Cotes De Provence.
81 Beach St. Good seasonal cooking in simply-decked seaside surroundings opposite the beach. Service is leisurely.
Dining Club, Middle Street, members’ joint taken over a couple of years back by Gary Rhodes-endorsed chef Scott Roberts (BYO wine, 5 course set menus at £27.50).

The hot restaurant review: Victuals & Co

Victuals & Co (it means simply “food and company”), housed in pedestrianized St George’s Passage (one of many ancient alleyways that link the high street with the seafront) is like a little place you might stumble across in Soho. There’s a counter along which you can share plates at lunchtime, all hip lighting and slate greys; beyond are two small dining rooms on two floors. The evening menu isn’t cheap but is definitely worth a go: starters, at around £8, have cute names that belie the seriousness of the cooking (from a former chef at the Michelin-rated Marquis at Alkham): so “ham, egg and chips” is actually an intricate bundle of hock, quail’s egg and string chips, while “crab” was an artful construction of gazpacho, avocado, shellfish and tomato. Mains (£19) were excellent, with emphasis on mixing cuts and flavours: lamb loin, belly and shoulder matched textures with tenderness, while the “cheeky pig 4 ways” added black pudding to cheek, belly and loin. Yet neither felt like a meat overdose. House wine is around £16. Be prepared to spend around £100 for two.

Accommodation: Allotment

There are now plenty of decent hotels in Deal, from seafront splendour at The Royal to smaller boutiquey places like Coast House and Number One B’n’B. Our accommodation was provided by the Allotment Appartment, a three bed maisonette above its popular deli and cafe downstairs, right in the centre of the old high street. Think stripped back white wooden floors, Farrow and Ball charcoals, open fireplaces, simple seaside furnishings, a splash of colour. There’s also a treehouse-like wooden roof terrace, perfect for both matinal and afternoon sun, with very leafy views over the town gardens beyond. In summer the appartment, which sleeps up to 7 people, costs from £120 a night. More info and how to book here.

Stephen Emms has written about Deal and the Kent Coast for many years. Read his complete guide to the area in The Guardian here.