Free Weekend? Explore Swain’s Lane

Why sweat it out on a train to Brighton when we have a charming ‘resort’ of our very own – within stumbling distance?

Kentishtowners are luckier than most urban dwellers, enjoying fall-out-the-door access to one of London’s most celebrated almost-rural escapes. And as all good Heath walks need a focal point, so Swain’s Lane, on the leyline where NW5 melts into N6, is a local day-tripper’s classic.

With its row of laid-back pavement cafes and clutch of traditional neighbourhood shops, the strip feels a world away from the hustle and bustle and of K-Town proper, only a few moments downstream.

Yes, close your eyes and this gentle, half-moon curve is a promenade of alfresco dining, all in the shade of majestic plane trees, our very own ‘out of town resort.’ And interesting too is that there’s more than a little truth to that waterfront feel.

Swain’s Lane is an ancient thoroughfare that ran along the banks of the now buried River Fleet. Mention of it can be found as far back as 1492, a steep path originally used for driving animals (hence the historical title Swine’s Lane) up into the hillside farmlands.

Those fields were later to be repurposed as London’s most famous burial grounds at Highgate Cemetery, giving the Lane an eerie peace as it winds higher. But down at its mouth, the chink of glassware and the giggles of contented babies provide a very different jolly but relaxed, year-round holiday atmosphere.

Kalendar is the perennially successful mini-empire that led the way for this odd little arcade’s beachfront transformation. A clued-up waiter from the long running Café Mozart struck out on his own and opened up in the defunct dry cleaner’s next door, doing so well that he eventually bought his old employers out and now runs both spots. The cafes are a mirror image of each other, leading to regular confusion when attempting a rendezvous, but outdoor heaters mean either terrace is always a well appointed option.

The Kalendar menu (the same at both) was pioneering when it opened but now feels slightly dated, strong on signature breakfast classics, worthy lunch plates and own-made cakes. Yet legions of fans (it is permanently humming with both locals and ‘tourists’) leave little reason to mess with the formula. We suggest some Eggs Florentine and getting stuck in to the weekend papers, surely the quintessential Kalendar experience.

Further round the bay, Corks & Forks have also expanded their operation over time, turning what was once a rather dusty off licence into a thriving foodie hangout (see box below).

But it’s not just gastro this and that. Mickey’s Greengrocers and Covington Florists have long histories in the Lane, and both are currently embroiled in the battle to ‘Save Swain’s Lane’ from the development aspirations of owner, the Earl of Listowel.

As we’ve reported previously, there is a very vocal campaign to steer the direction of any new building work in favour of retaining the rural villagey feel that the low-slung shops currently provide.

Campaigners agree that these may not be very pretty in themselves, but do offer unrestricted views of the spire of St Anne’s church and the overspill of lush greenery that tumbles up Highgate West Hill from the Heath. As with everywhere in London that’s enjoyed for more than economic reasons alone, NW5’s out-of-town resort is engaged in a constant battle to preserve the essence of makes it special.

At the corner, casual away-day visitors may enjoy a quick gander at On Reflection, a mirrors-focussed interiors shop. For 44 years, this was where the legendary Cavours stood. A traditional ironmonger and hardware store, it was a local treasure trove of key cutting and useful nuts and bolts until rent rises saw it off five years ago.

As with Kalendar, Corks & Forks and Bistro Laz/Al Parco over the road, this was another of Swain’s Lane mini-empires, perhaps even the first. Owner Geoffrey was son of the couple who ran Cavours Grocers (now the Forks deli) for nearly 60 years, a place I remember as offering the kind of smartly overalled personal touch much mourned in the superstore era.

The Laz-Parco dynasty offer very tasty pizzas and other Italian classics on the site of a former Lyons Tea Room right on the Heath. It too has a front terrace, although the proximity to West Hill makes this feel a lot closer to Kentish Town’s roadside tables.

And opposite is the former Duke of St Albans pub, once a key watering hole for those stopping for the night on this important route out of London, and now Greek “taverna” the Carob Tree. So there’s no excuse at all not to feel like you’re well and truly out of the manor. Even better? The only difficulty you might experience travelling back is an inkling of a blister – or a delayed C2.

Lunch Review:
Corks & Forks

At the first hint of a turn in the season, we bagged a table on one of Swain’s Lane’s iconic sun terraces. There’s a deceptive amount of indoor space at Corks & Forks too, but for an experience closer to glamorous shore-front than seaside tea rooms, it has to be outdoors.

As befits the resort vibe, service was frustratingly casual. The waitress attended our table as if we were the first surprise visitors in weeks, despite it being a reasonably busy lunchtime. She struggled negotiating the annoying ropes that mark off the tables and had no idea what variety of tarts were on offer.

Luckily a manageress righted things and we selected a couple of own-made artisan tarts from the simple menu of deli fare, then sat back, surrounded by some mature Ladies Who Lunch and the odd single ‘freelance’ type, nonchalantly poking at an iPad.

The Spinach and Goat’s Cheese tart clearly made good use of the excellent range of cheeses available in the deli and was delicious. A Mediterranean Roast Vegetable number also used quality ingredients and well-made pastry for a couple of good value sub-£6 lunches. The accompanying side salads were less of a hit, featuring an undisclosed, cloying cream dressing. So a small glass of Cotes Du Rhone rose (£4.95) from the extensive selection inside proved a better way to conjure up the summertime vibes.

In truly warmer months, the back garden can feel like a hidden courtyard deep inside a Moroccan Medina, while there are always tastings, music nights and creative children’s workshops going on in the main area, which has been knocked through to feature the tempting deli, wine shop and also a small craft shop all in one. It’s just the kind of place you’d love to discover on holiday, where the food and drink offering would feel perfect for lazier work-free days.

Words & Pics: Tom Kihl