Free Weekend? Explore Tooting

Ellen used to spend her time in telesales, translation – and Tufnell Park. Then she had a baby, and moved south of the river. But would she come back?

Tooting is well connected to Kentish Town – and I should know, as last autumn we left my beloved NW5 for this unknown corner of southwest London. It’s straight down the Northern Line, or take the more leisurely First Capital Connect – both no more than 40 mins.

I’ve overheard Tooting Bec referred to as “the nice end”, likely as it’s so near well-to-do, “nappy valley” Balham. The area around the Broadway (one tube stop further south) is admittedly a bit scruffier at first glance, but there’s something bubbling under the surface, between the pound shops and high street stalwarts. It’s well-known too for excellent curries, far surpassing Brick Lane.

Anyway, first things first. If you can’t start your weekend without brunch at Kentish Canteen then two well-received recent openings near Tooting Broadway station will provide a fine substitute: Tota (pictured) and Graveney and Meadow. Both have a low-lit, industrial vibe, and serve food all day – eggs benedict or a full English for breakfast, excellent coffee, cakes, with fancier fare in the evenings (steaks and modern French/British at the former, tapas at the latter). Both are family-friendly during the day without being uncool, and staff are enthusiastic and friendly. As an aside, Graveney and Meadow is run by Antic Pubs, which also owns The Antelope next door, a huge pub serving interesting beers and great Sunday lunch. But first, let’s carry on with your Saturday.

Tooting has two covered markets right next to each other: Broadway Market – the largest indoor market in south London – is more eclectic and traditional, whilst the eponymous market has a more boho vibe, and occasionally holds gigs hosted by the Arts Club. And the Transition Town movement (which in NW5 runs the free bookshops and peddles free veg at Tufnell Park market) is also very active down here, organising community events such as Foodival (also in Tooting Market).

Alongside large high street chains, and a good selection of charity shops (much like in Kentish Town), Morleys homewares store is reminiscent of Selbys on Holloway Road, and there are many lovely single-focus shops serving the local Asian community: jewellery, sarees, beauty, and – of course – food.

But now it’s time for lunch, and if you don’t fancy a curry, try The Selkirk, spacious and renowned for its fabulous beer garden. If more than one of your party is having a roast, the meat and trimmings are served communal-style on a board for you to serve yourself, a nice touch. You could also try the recently revamped Gorringe Park (under new ownership by the owners of The Somers Town Coffee House pub) or The Antelope (mentioned above).

Missing K-Town yet? Didn’t think so. Just as you lot have Hampstead Heath, south west London has its commons. On the short walk from Tooting Bec station to Tooting Bec common, go via Nazish’s Kitchen for an excellent post-prandial coffee; then add a bit of fun to your walk with the Lost in Tooting app, a treasure hunt developed as an art project to “catalogue the constantly changing relationship between the Common and its users”. You could even substitute your morning swim at the Parliament Hill Lido with Tooting Bec Lido – larger and open all year round! Brrrrrr.

Saturday night is perfect for a curry, so take your pick on the high street: Spice Village for particularly spicy onion bhajis or, for something more upmarket and innovative, Maseladar. But if that’s not your thing, locals are excited by brand new The Joint Diner which follows the trend of specialising in one or two dishes done well (a la Pizza East/Chicken Shop), serving only sourdough pizza and fancy burgers.

At the other end of Tooting, Fujisan does authentic and tasty Japanese food (perhaps what Satuma would like to be). Save room for dessert if you can: Afters is open late serving a huge range of ice cream and kulfi, without comparison in Kentish Town, sadly, unless we can convince Ruby Violet to open until 2am? The last tube all the way to KT leaves just before midnight, but do nip by and check out what’s going on at Tooting Tram and Social, the huge self-proclaimed über pub, often with bands and DJs.

And finally, Kentishtowners, make sure you’ve taken in all the sights on your travels: the rather attractive old gas lamp/signpost in the centre of Mitcham Road by the tube station, the art deco Granada (the first cinema to be given Grade I listing, now a bingo hall) and – last but not least – the first ever Chicken Cottage. Really.

Words and Pics: Ellen Kythor @nellefant