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As regular readers know, we’re huge fans of the Admiral (and many of you are too). After all, it’s on our doorstep, and has become a kind of unofficial HQ for The Kentishtowner at play (Thursday nights, since you ask).

Yes, over the last few months we’ve explored their real ales, zipped through their home-infused spirits (bar manager Roxy’s spiced rum always warms the cockles), and even been kicked out when discovered, woozily, after closing time in the fairy-lit courtyard.

But we resisted Roxy’s offer of Sunday lunch for a while, not being massive fans of the pub roast genre (usually overpriced and disappointing).

So for this new column – imaginatively entitled Best Sunday Lunch? – we’ll endeavour to overturn our prejudice as we seek out north London’s finest. And where better place to start?

There’s a choice of four or five mains and all arrive heaving with seasonal vegetables – roasted butternut squash, carrot mash, broccoli. Chicken was tender and delicious, the pork belly even more so, slow roasted in cider for four hours. A stilton-infused nut roast, meanwhile, proved to be a far cry from the dry horrors of Christmas past, a ‘vegetarian alternative worth returning for,’ enthused co-editor Tom.

To finish we all scoffed home-made ginger cake and custard, a real highlight – like the best school pudding ever – and made with four different types of ginger, according to Roxy, who cooks all the food herself.

Some suggestions? Perhaps reduce the potatoes and increase the protein, but we’re guessing the portions are carefully costed to fit the good-value £10 price tag. Oh and on our visit, there were no children’s portions for the chicken, but this is apparently changing soon.

Overall, though, we were very surprised at what a pleasant daytime pub this is, with its more leisurely weekending-kinda-bespectacled-crowd, the sense of peace only compromised by the occasional spurt of ankle-biters across the polished wooden floor.

Best Sunday Lunch? Rating: 8/10

Tapping The Admiral are offering Kentishtowner readers a free pint with their roast. How very nice of them. See sidebar ad for more details. And look out for live music on Sunday afternoons soon.

Where next, comrades? Where do you nominate for Best Sunday Lunch?

Words & Pics: Stephen Emms

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