This mouthwatering plate was served to us at 10 Greek Street, yet another little candle-lit joint in Soho, with the vibe of a Ducksoup or Polpo. It was a little quiet, it’s fair to say, but then the rain was coming down outside – and the place has only been open a week.
But we liked ex-Wapping Project chef Cameron Emirali’s food very much, in its low-key way (that may change sharpish, of course, when the reviews come out). From the brief chalked-up menu on the blackboard, a starter of wild mushroom, truffle oil and parmesan (£7) was wonderfully comforting; a main of chargrilled leg of Brecon lamb was pinkly tender, its flavour jacked up a gear or two by anchovy (£17); but best of all was the crispy-skinned silver mullet (above), balanced on aesthetically-pleasing romanesco, and sweetened in a Sicilian way by raisins and pine nuts (£16).
10 Greek Street, Soho. Two courses and house wine for two around £60. Be prepared to queue soon. Or is it one dimly-lit tiny eatery too many?
Words & Pics: Stephen Emms
